Indonesia – Islands https://www.islands.com The world's most beautiful island travel to the Caribbean, Hawaii, Tahiti and Mexico with expert reviews of resorts, snorkeling and the best islands to live on. Thu, 22 Jun 2023 12:40:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.2 https://www.islands.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/favicon-isl-1.png Indonesia – Islands https://www.islands.com 32 32 Luxurious as Ever, The Laguna Once Again Delivers the Best of Bali https://www.islands.com/resorts/bali-the-laguna-renovations/ Fri, 09 Dec 2022 15:01:27 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=46042 Recently renovated and better than ever, The Laguna in Bali spoils guests with feasts, dances, and rituals right on beautiful Nusa Dua beach.

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laguna bali
With a new look and myriad unique offerings, this resort is undoubtedly one of the best places for experiencing authenticity in Bali. The Laguna

Earlier this year, The Laguna, a 5-star Marriott Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, underwent an incredible redesign that now immerses travelers in the best of Bali’s arts, history, heritage, cuisine, and culture. Located on stunning Nusa Dua beach, the property’s transformation and reimagining boast touches that are unique to this tropical paradise. 

The 287 rooms, suites, and villas feature décor and designs inspired by traditional Balinese elements. The spectacle of each room is a colorful “sulaman” embroidered headboard, with woven keben baskets, used to carry offerings at temples, that accent the room’s furnishings and specially commissioned local artwork. Guests will appreciate the resort’s signature butler service while those in the grand lagoon suite and villas can enjoy an enchanting floating breakfast in their private pool.

Laguna lagoon
Each lagoon swimming pool is begging to be discovered all over again. The Laguna

Seven lagoon-style swimming pools (including one for children) are hidden among the resort’s expansive tropical gardens, perfect for an afternoon stroll. Nearby, guests can explore a renowned Uluwatu Temple and the Garuda Wisnu Kencana cultural park to learn more about local Balinese traditions.

Six restaurants, lounges, and bars serve a range of cuisines from around the world. Guests can dine among the lagoons at Banyubiru, featuring a pan-Asian and international menu. The beachfront Arwana restaurant serves gourmet fresh seafood under the moonlight.

The award-winning Lagoon Spa, with azure pools and calming waterfalls, is the ultimate Balinese retreat. With eight indoor treatment rooms and steam and sauna facilities, this wellness escape is the perfect spot to unwind at the end of the day. For a real treat, indulge in a signature lagoon Kelapa ritual, a full body 150-minute treatment that starts with a soothing coconut milk foot soak followed by a complete Balinese massage using the purest virgin coconut oil.

Nusa Dua beach
Nusa Dua beach is always a main draw for guests seeking serenity, but the spa will immensely elevate the experience. The Laguna

There’s a full slate of daily activities including beach volleyball, sunrise yoga, circuit training, fruit carving, beach soccer, and Balinese hat-making. Special experiences have also been created for children from paper weaving to beaded bracelet and mask-making to exciting treasure hunts.

For guests who really want the most authentic Bali vacation, a special evening event begins with a cultural Rindik and Legong dance followed by a jamu ritual and an indigenous blessing ceremony at the resort’s temple garden. Next, guests move on to a traditional hand-washing ritual followed by a feast of Indonesian and Balinese cuisine.

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AYANA’s Newest Resort Adds an Invigorating Option in Bali https://www.islands.com/resorts/ayana-segara-bali-grand-opening-deal/ Tue, 15 Nov 2022 17:26:28 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=45830 The fourth property in this sprawling estate blends contemporary design with all the local elements guests have come to expect.

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ayana segara bali
California cool meets Balinese culture and style at this spectacular new resort. AYANA Segara Bali

Few resort communities on this planet truly reflect the “something for everyone” mantra as well as AYANA in Bali. Set across 222 acres, this luxurious estate has earned considerable praise for its Villas and Rimba concepts, as well as the flagship AYANA Resort, which spoils guests with regional authenticity. But there’s a new star in this constellation, and it is destined to become the immediate crowd favorite.

AYANA Segara Bali recently opened its doors, ushering in a new sense of style at this sprawling Jimbaran oasis. In addition to boasting the largest indoor/outdoor pool in Bali, this resort is also home to a downright massive spa—more than 236,000 sq. ft. for those keeping track at home—which will make it a highly desirable choice for rest, relaxation, and rejuvenation. After all, that’s a crucial element when traveling 10-20 hours to get somewhere.

Just like the original AYANA Resort, this property’s 205 rooms and suites will feature unmistakably Balinese décor and accents; however, guests will also experience an overwhelming sense of “California Cool.” Every accommodation spoils visitors with a private balcony or terrace, which amplifies the already incredible views of this cliffside escape that sits above the tree line. 

Luna
Luna’s deck will be a popular spot for sunset gazing. AYANA Segara Bali

The highest point in Segara Bali is Luna, one of three new restaurants putting a heavy emphasis on creative variety. This spot will be an instant hit for travelers who crave the best sunsets in the world, but the farm-to-table Indonesian dishes like jagung bakar and mie goreng kaki lima will still be the real treats. The appropriately named Medi will serve fresh Mediterranean salads and pastas, as well as Italian wines that won’t be found anywhere else on the island. And Karang is the all-day dining option serving Pan-Asian and Italian dishes, among other resort staples.

No opening is grand unless it features special deals, and AYANA Segara Bali is offering guests a 25 percent discount on rates, as well as special spa perks that bolster this property’s intense dedication to wellness. A complimentary one-hour AYANA Spa experience and in-room therapy discount should have everyone forgetting why they needed an escape in the first place.

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Why Wakatobi Resort is a Must-Visit for Avid Snorkelers https://www.islands.com/sponsored-post/why-wakatobi-resort-is-a-must-visit-for-avid-snorkelers/ Fri, 01 Jul 2022 16:01:28 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=44962 There’s very little wonder why this beachfront oasis is considered by many to be the best of its kind.

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Wakatobi Resort
If Wakatobi Resort isn’t already at the top of every diver’s travel wishlist, it should be. Wakatobi Resort

When snorkeling becomes a passion, a quick excursion off a resort beach or a crowded boat tour to a generic site isn’t enough. Avid snorkeling enthusiasts want pristine reefs away from the crowds, where ideal conditions and diverse ecosystems provide hours of in-water enjoyment. This is exactly what they find at Wakatobi Resort.  

Wakatobi is a beachfront oasis located on a small island in Indonesia’s Southeast Sulawesi region, home to some of the world’s most pristine and biodiverse coral reefs. The resort is surrounded by a private marine preserve widely known as a premier diving destination. But unlike some scuba-centric meccas, Wakatobi is equally attractive to avid snorkelers. 

reef
The House Reef alone is worth the visit—but there’s still so much more to explore here. Wakatobi Resort

To understand Wakatobi’s appeal to snorkelers, you don’t need to look beyond the beach. Directly in front of the resort, a swath of shallow water stretches for more than a mile to the left and right of the dive center. This is the famous House Reef, which has been named the world’s No. 1 shore dive.

The House Reef encompasses several hundred acres of sand flats, grass beds and patch reefs that hold thousands of unique species of marine life, from fascinating subjects like grazing sea turtles to treasured finds such as pygmy seahorses and pipefish. Snorkelers have 24-hour access to this shallow-water playground, with easy entry from the beach or the resort’s jetty. Because the House Reef is both easily accessible and monitored by Wakatobi’s attentive staff, it is an excellent option for novice snorkelers and children alike.

Snorkelers can also take advantage of Wakatobi’s taxi boat service. This fleet of small launches carries guests to and from the more distant areas of the House Reef.

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The friendly staff is ready to help beginners experience the best of the House Reef and beyond. Wakatobi Resort

The shallows of the House Reef extend some 200 feet from shore, at which point the marine landscape suddenly plummets into the ocean’s depths. Here, steep coral- and sponge-encrusted slopes and ocean walls transport snorkelers into an entirely different world, where creatures such as frogfish, stonefish, crocodilefish, blue-ringed octopus, moray eels, blue-spotted stingrays, ghost pipefish, shrimp and goby pairs can be seen along the upper lip of the drop-off.

The resort’s jetty is a great place to kick off snorkeling adventures on the House Reef because it provides easy access to the water regardless of tide conditions and shelters a wide variety of marine life. It’s not uncommon to see giant clams and colorful anemones around the jetty, and the clear water provides unparalleled views of the upper rim of the reef.

coral reef
An amazing array of marine life is waiting to be discovered by explorers of all experience levels. Wakatobi Resort

Snorkelers have been known to devote entire days to exploring the House Reef, but that is just the beginning of Wakatobi’s appeal to snorkelers. One of the defining characteristics of many dive sites within the resort’s marine preserve is a dramatic reef profile that begins in water less than 6 feet deep, then plummets into the depths in a series of slopes and walls. This juxtaposition of shallow and deep terrains creates unique opportunities for snorkelers. Rather than being consigned to a separate boat that visits a limited range of sites, snorkelers at Wakatobi are welcomed aboard the resort’s fleet of spacious dayboats, with access to more than two dozen sites where reefs begin in the shallows.

When divers and snorkelers share the same boat, it creates unique opportunities for couples and families. A diver with a snorkeling partner can enjoy the same site, with one staying shallow while the other goes deep. Young snorkelers can enjoy shallow reefs in the company of a parent or one of the resort’s attentive dive guides while other members of the family dive on the same site. Often the snorkelers are able to see the divers descend in the clear, sunlit waters.

Boat
Guests can take a water taxi or one of the resort’s dive boats to other locations to enrich their overall experience. Wakatobi Resort

One of the most popular nearby snorkeling destinations is Turkey Beach, about a half-mile south of the resort and accessible by either water taxi or dive boat. The primary reason guests flock to Turkey Beach is its resident population of majestic sea turtles, which can often be spotted right along the edge of the reef’s drop-off, along with eagle rays and humphead parrotfish.

Exceptional in-water experiences are just one of the reasons why snorkelers love Wakatobi. Ashore, guests enjoy a true tropical island getaway, with picturesque Indonesian-style bungalows nestled into a beachfront coconut grove, and luxurious private villas perched on the shore to deliver sweeping ocean views.

Wakatobi’s hospitality team takes great pride in delivering personalized five-star service and warm welcomes. For team members, it is a point of pride to anticipate guest needs and exceed expectations by going above and beyond. The resort is also family-friendly, with dedicated nanny services and a stimulating children’s program. 

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There’s plenty of fun to be had on the water as well. Wakatobi Resort

In addition to snorkeling and diving, guests can enjoy watersports such as stand-up paddleboards and kayak tours along the coast. Seasonal trade winds create an opportunity to learn the sport of kiteboarding, and Wakatobi has created a dedicated kiting center, providing equipment, instruction and support for everyone from first-time kiters to experts.

Land activities include hikes on nature trails surrounding the resort, bird-watching sessions, village tours on nearby islands, and cultural activities such as Indonesian cooking classes. There is an on-site spa offering a range of massage services and treatments, a library and lounge, and available internet and phone services for those who need to stay in touch with the outside world.

Mealtime is a particular favorite at Wakatobi. The resort’s dining room provides beach and water views that create a relaxed atmosphere. The culinary team is known for creating exceptional menus that showcase a tempting range of both international and Indonesian cuisines. In addition, the chefs are happy to fulfill special requests and can accommodate a range of special dietary needs. As an added treat, Wakatobi has a dedicated team of pastry chefs that concoct mouth-watering culinary confections daily.

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After a long day of exploring, head to the jetty bar for the region’s spectacular sunsets. Wakatobi Resort

Another highlight of daily life at Wakatobi is the stunning sunsets, which are best viewed from the iconic Jetty Bar located at the far end of the resort’s pier. It’s the ideal place to enjoy an evening libation while watching the sun sink below the water. 

A final reason why Wakatobi appeals to both divers and snorkelers is the convenience of travel. Unlike many remote island destinations in the Indo-Pacific region, getting to Wakatobi doesn’t require long layovers and multiple land, sea and air connections. When guests arrive at Bali’s international airport, they are greeted by members of the Wakatobi concierge team. All details of entry, arrival and baggage transfer are handled by the team as guests enjoy an overnight rest. The following morning, guests are escorted back to the airport to relax in a private lounge as they await a private guest flight that delivers them directly to Wakatobi’s airfield in about two and a half hours.

Interested in visiting Wakatobi Resort?

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Ready to explore? Year-round bookings are now underway. Wakatobi Resort

For those interested in experiencing Wakatobi Resort for themselves, we have fantastic news. The resort has recently reopened for year-round bookings. In addition, an excellent opportunity for avid snorkelers to experience the resort is with the Snorkeling Report’s Wakatobi excursion, which still has space available for its 2022 trip.

In addition to the impeccable service, amenities and gourmet dining provided to all guests, this excursion includes four days at preselected snorkel sites away from the resort and one guided night-snorkeling session on the Wakatobi House Reef.

You can learn more about the upcoming excursion here.

Contact the Wakatobi team directly at office@wakatobi.com or inquire here.

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Escape to Relaxed Luxury in Wakatobi https://www.islands.com/escape-to-relaxed-luxury-in-wakatobi/ Tue, 25 Jun 2019 02:28:46 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=39854 Bungalows at the water’s edge. White sand beaches. Pristine, protected coral reefs that start a few steps from the water’s edge. Wakatobi delivers everything a traveler expects in an Indonesian getaway without the one thing you won’t miss: crowds. This private-island resort, just a two-and-a-half hour plane ride east of Bali, fronts a magnificent coral […]

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Bungalows at the water’s edge. White sand beaches. Pristine, protected coral reefs that start a few steps from the water’s edge.

Wakatobi delivers everything a traveler expects in an Indonesian getaway without the one thing you won’t miss: crowds.

This private-island resort, just a two-and-a-half hour plane ride east of Bali, fronts a magnificent coral reef at its doorstep, and is home to just 25 bungalows and four villas. In other-words, it’s as private as it gets without buying your own island. Off the grid, yes—but Wakatobi’s attention to amenities and level of service provide so much extravagance that you get the best of both worlds: a natural island escape and a high-end getaway with unlimited pampering, especially for villa guests.

Wakatobi Resort reef
This private-island resort, just a 2.5-hour plane ride east of Bali, fronts magnificent coral reefs and is home to just 25 bungalows and four villas. Courtesy of Wakatobi

Wakatobi offers four villas, two with two full bedrooms and a private pool, and two one-bedroom models. As if luxuriating in your own secluded retreat weren’t heaven enough, each of the villas comes with butler service. Should you wish for a watermelon mojito or club soda and lime while sunbathing on your own stretch of sand, your butler will bring it to you. Guests of the villas also enjoy the services of a private snorkel or dive guide. This same guide is available to you throughout the entire trip, anytime you wish to scuba dive or snorkel. Your guide will lead you on a swim overtop the resort’s famed House Reef or on boat trips to nearby reefs, all the while pointing out unique fish and critters to help you make the most of your in-water time.

All guests of the resort with dive or snorkeling in their packages can partake in guided snorkel / dive trips from one the resort’s large boats. Every day, the crew brings guests to one of 40 named sites. Plus, all guests can enjoy unlimited snorkeling from shore on the house reef, one of the most renowned in the world for its clownfish, cuttlefish—cousins of the reef squid—schools of bright-pink and orange anthias fish, hard and soft corals in a rainbow of colors, as well as sea turtles, the occasional passing eagle rays and more.

Wakatobi infinity pool
Wakatobi offers four villas, two with two full bedrooms and a private pool, and two one-bedroom models. Courtesy of Wakatobi

What’s exceptional about the House Reef is that Wakatobi offers a service that few other resorts do. It’s a one-way boat-taxi service that will drop you at the far—or near—edge of the reef, allowing you to snorkel as much as you like, then meander your way back to the beach or the resort’s jetty. Easy.

For both snorkelers and divers, one of the reasons Wakatobi remains a top favorite resort is its seclusion. Situated within the famed ‘Coral Triangle,’ the resort is located in the Wakatobi Marine Reserve, the third-largest marine park in the country. Here, guests of the resort will typically see no other snorkelers/divers for many miles. That means unfettered access to pristine reefs where 500 species of reef-building corals crowd one another, creating habitat for an abundance of macro life, from nudibranchs to robust ghost pipefish. Moreover, the area is home to more than 2,000 fish species, including the exotic mandarinfish with its electric-cobalt coloring, and 15 species of frogfish.

When the day ends on Wakatobi, the colors keep going. On this tiny isle, sunsets—with their wispy bands of pastel pink and fuchsia—are the kind you settle in for. The best perch for taking in the show is the Jetty Bar, where drinks are served at the end of a long dock just a few feet above the waterline. There’s no better place to sip a Wakatobi mai tai or an icy cold beer while snapping sunset photos, relaxing as the pinks fade to black, and a canopy of stars claims the horizon stage. Come day’s end, you’ll also want to take time to plan your next day’s adventure, be it snorkeling or diving, or taking advantage of everything else offered at Wakatobi.

Such as the Wakatobi Spa. Here, treatments include body scrubs, Balinese massage and pedicures, all with products incorporating numerous botanical essences and the resort’s custom spa oil blends, which can be created based on a guest’s desired treatment.

Guests seeking active pastimes can paddleboard, kayak, kitesurf, or walk the Onemobaa nature trail and spy on local birds as well as monitor lizards. Trips to nearby island villages are also offered, allowing guests the chance to experience a bit of local life, including customs and traditions.

picnic on a private beach
Enjoy a picnic on a private portion of the beach where resort staff will pamper you with sparkling wine and treats. Courtesy of Wakatobi

Another unique opportunity is a picnic on a private portion of the beach. Resort staff pack a high-end picnic—with sparkling wine and a wide variety of treats—for you to enjoy while playing castaway. For an afternoon, you and yours can enjoy the utmost in seclusion before returning to the resort. Here, you just might realize that as much as the fantasy of your own island sounds incredible, it’s much more satisfying to visit an island that includes the services of snorkel and dive guides, chefs, massage therapists, bartenders, and ecology experts—who, together, create the one-of-a-kind luxury island retreat that is Wakatobi.

To book your next getaway to Wakatobi, visit wakatobi.com. Click here for a quick inquiry.

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Are These the Most Remote Overwater Bungalows on Earth? https://www.islands.com/are-these-most-remote-overwater-bungalows-on-earth/ Wed, 03 Oct 2018 02:01:36 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=40258 Go behind the scenes at this new luxury resort marooned 160 nautical miles from civilization.

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overwater bungalows
The overwater bungalows at Bawah Reserve Courtesy Bawah Reserve

Debuted January 2018, Bawah Reserve lives and breathes seclusion. Reachable only by a private 80-minute flight from Singapore, the destination comprises six unspoiled islands that were previously uninhabited. Be among the first to explore this privately owned paradise, where no more than 70 guests at a time enjoy the sublime beauty of places like Bali and Boracay, sans any signs of tourism.

Anambas Archipelago

Scene

The retreat is the first true resort in Indonesia’s largely untouristed Anambas Archipelago, an Eden of white sand, turquoise sea, thriving reefs and jungled hills. Now designated a marine conservation area, the reserve features 13 beaches and only 35 suites, which blend delicately into the natural surroundings. Guests arrive by seaplane, splashing down onto one of three sheltered lagoons. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
Suites and Overwater Bungalows
Bawah’s string of overwater bungalows represent the highest room category: All 11 feature ocean views and direct lagoon access. Or pick from safari-tented garden and beach suites. Handcrafted with sustainable materials like bamboo and recycled teak, each room is adorned with frills: Think copper bathtubs, private verandas, canopied beds and outdoor showers. Handy extras also include beach bags, sun hats and snorkeling gear. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
Treetops restaurant

Food and Drink

Take your seat at a raw-edged wood-slab table at Treetops restaurant, tucked into the rainforest canopy. Overhead, a thatched roof and woven jellyfish chandeliers set the mood, along with sunset views over the lagoon. On your plate, local ingredients from the onsite organic garden elevate Asian-fusion dishes. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
Treetops restaurant
Three boho-chic bars also fleck the property. Set by the crescent-shaped infinity pool, Grouper is an art installation of fishnets and driftwood. The Jules Verne bar pays tribute to its Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea-penning namesake with a nautical vibe and a wildlife-viewing platform: Spy fruit bats and pied imperial pigeons as you sip custom cocktails. Or dig your toes into the sand at the Boat House, complete with rustic swing chairs. Beach picnics and private, lantern-lit dinners for two are also available. Best of all, breakfast, lunch, dinner and soft drinks are all included in the room rate. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
snorkler diving in the water

Adventures

Don a snorkel to commune with teeming marine life, from parrotfish, clownfish and trumpetfish to turtles, reef sharks and giant clams. Learn to dive or sail. Hike past butterflies, lizards and ancient trees in the rainforest. Gawk at the coastline and neighboring islands from lofty lookouts. Paddle board over coral reefs and colorful fish. Island-hop to deserted beaches in a see-through kayak. Cruise around the reserve while sipping champagne. And, when night falls, watch a movie on the beach, or gaze at the heavens through the resort’s telescope. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
Bawah Aura Spa

Spa and Wellness

Many guests opt for an in-room massage, but Bawah’s Aura Spa also features five treatment suites, a yoga pavilion, meditation sessions, and a reflexology area, all surrounded by foliage. Unlock relaxation with a full-body oil massage, or experiment with therapies like a cream bath for your hair or a skin-smoothing salt scrub. Courtesy Bawah Reserve
Bawah Island Reserve

Sustainability

Bawah Reserve is as green as it is dreamy. The property uses eco-friendly sunscreen and laundry detergent, as well as electric vehicles and solar-powered boats. Rainwater is collected for use, and waste is recycled, composted or mulched. Fishing, pesticides and plastic bottles are banned. And, as a supporter of the Bawah Anambas Foundation, the resort contributes to the benefit of the ocean and local community. The upshot? Stays here are both over-the-top and guilt-free. Courtesy Bawah Reserve

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Best Hotel Spas in Bali https://www.islands.com/best-hotel-spas-in-bali/ Tue, 11 Jul 2017 23:52:46 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=41685 Looking for a Bali spa? Find your zen at these hotel spas in Ubud, Seminyak and beyond.

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Bali is a spiritual island, promoting harmony between the mind, body and soul. So what better way to treat yourself on vacation than relaxing at a hotel spa? We’ve rounded up the best Bali spas in Ubud, Seminyak and beyond so you can find total relaxation and rejuvenation. Namaste.

Hotel Spas in Bali: Amankila
Amankila Courtesy Amankila

Best Local Experience: Amankila

Amankila is set on a hilltop surrounded by the dramatic backdrop of Mount Agung, a volcano referred to as the home of the gods by the Balinese. This year, the resort celebrates its 25th anniversary with a bevy of special events and cultural experiences such as 25-minute masterclasses of Kundalini yoga and kendang drumming, along with 25-minute specials, including foot massages and temple blessings.

Bali Spa: Soori Bali
Soori Spa at Soori Bali Courtesy Soori Bali

Best Family-Friendly Spa: Soori Spa at Soori Bali

Perched atop a black volcanic beach, Soori Spa features a meditation pool surrounded by views of Mount Batukaru and offers treatments suited for the entire family. Women should try the Soori Signature Facial using soothing lemon and rose oils and lymphatic drainage massage techniques. Guys can opt for the Soori Facial for Men, a facial involving exfoliation with local rice bran and a detoxifying mask of volcanic clay. And don’t forget to treat your little ones! The Seriously Spoilt treatment includes a signature foot bath, full body massage and a mini facial, and will make your child feel like pampered royalty.

Bali Spa: Hanging Gardens of Bali
Spa Collection at Hanging Gardens of Bali Courtesy Hanging Gardens of Bali

Best Pool: Spa Collection at Hanging Gardens of Bali

Unwind amongst the treetops at the Hanging Gardens of Bali’s expansive infinity pool suspended over the rainforest in Ubud. After a dip, grab your significant other and decompress in the Royal Spa Suite located near the Ayung River where you can both enjoy a rejuvenating body scrub, a facial, a 90-minute flower petal massage and a body bath treatment complemented with chocolate truffles, canapés and a bottle of champagne. Add-on options for the suite include a three-course healthy cuisine meal and a photo session with the resort’s in-house photographer.

Bali Spa: Viceroy Bali
Lembah Spa at Viceroy Bali Courtesy Viceroy Bali

Best View: Lembah Spa at Viceroy Bali

Set atop a ridge overlooking the Petanu River gorge, also known as “The Valley of Kings,” Lembah Spa at Viceroy Bali provides a secluded space of serenity for spa-goers. Enjoy these tranquil views even more from the spring-fed plunge pool or infinity pool on the spa’s relaxation decks. For treatments, we recommend a combo package that fuses both fitness and pampering. Choose from either yoga, cycling or trekking, paired with a two-hour spa session including a Balinese massage and body scrub, yogurt body mask and a flower and steam bath.

Bali Spa: Como Shambhala Estate Ubud
Como Shambhala Estate Ubud Courtesy Como Shambhala Estate Ubud

Best Wellness Program: Como Shambhala Estate Ubud

Como Shambhala Estate Ubud provides three-, five-, or seven-day wellness programs such as Cleanse (if you want to detox), Be Active (for fitness-fanatics), Stress Management (if you’re looking to release day-to-day tension), Rejuvenation (a combo of beauty and spa treatments), Oriental Medicine (balances the physical, emotional and energy systems of the body) and Ayurveda (one of the world’s oldest holistic healing systems). The resort also hosts seminars and workshops throughout the year led by yoga, spa and fitness experts, so you can learn everything you need to know about living a holistic lifestyle.

Bali Spa: The Chedi Tanah Gajah, Ubud
The Spa at The Chedi Tanah Gajah, Ubud Courtesy The Chedi Tanah Gajah, Ubud

Best Rustic Vibe: The Spa at The Chedi Tanah Gajah, Ubud

Set on 12 acres of scenic rice paddy fields, The Chedi Tanah Gajah, Ubud provides a rustic yet luxe escape just outside of Ubud. Take a soothing dip in the 25-meter outdoor lap pool surrounded by lotus ponds or head to the spa pool villa with your significant other for a healing bath treatment. We recommend The Chedi Love Bath Ceremony complete with rose petals, “love potion,” champagne and canapés — let the romance begin.

Bali Spa: W Bali - Seminyak
Away Spa at W Bali – Seminyak Courtesy W Bali – Seminyak

Best Ambience: Away Spa at W Bali – Seminyak

Unplug in the healing-centric space of Away Spa. In typical W fashion, the spa boasts fluorescent-lit, modern treatment rooms with mediation platforms, a detox and oxygen room and a Chill bar where you can unwind between treatments and sip on mocktails. And when you’re ready for some fresh air, head to the Escape Cabana for a relaxing beachfront spa treatment. We recommend the “Morning After,” a detoxifying full-body massage infused with herbal oils that will help ease your muscle aches from a night out.

Bali Spa: Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Mandapa Spa at Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Courtesy Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Best Holistic Experience: Mandapa Spa at Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve is a high-end private sanctuary along the Ayung River valley, surrounded by ancient temples and rice paddy fields. Indulge in an in-depth holistic experience based on Mandapa Spa’s six pillars: Balinese Spa, Detox, Nutrition, Alternative Therapy, Body Therapy and Healing. Traditional Balinese touch massages include holistic approaches like chakra healing and a treatment performed by an intuitive blind healer. The spa also offers personalized spiritual, wellness, health and detox programs guided by a full-time patih (butler).

Bali Spa: Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan
Sacred River Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Courtesy Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Best Yoga Program: Sacred River Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Awaken your soul at Sacred River Spa, set in the verdant jungle along the Ayung River valley. Melt away your tensions with a variety of yoga classes ranging from AntiGravity Yoga (combines the practice of flying with the motion of dance), to Laughter Yoga, which combines the health benefits of laughter with yogic breathing and poses. Don’t let the yogi-fun stop there, sign up for the Dharma Shanti half- or full-day program to receive a 60-minute AntiGravity Yoga class, a 30-minute Meditation class with former Buddhist Nun and resident wellbeing mentor Ibu Fera, a three-course lunch and a two-hour ila Chakra Ceremony.

Bali Spa: The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa
Kahyangan Spa at The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa Courtesy The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa

Best Beachfront Spa: Kahyangan Spa at The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa

Head to The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa for an oceanside escape complete with traditional Balinese thatched pavilions, an expansive infinity pool and front row beach views. Get pampered with your significant other in one of the spa’s couples’ massage rooms where you can take a relaxing soak in the open-air bathtub while enjoying the surrounding views of the Indian Ocean. For treatments, we recommend The Kahyangan Delight, a 110-minute treatment including a massage and a body exfoliation of your choice.

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10 Best Islands to Live On for Starting Over https://www.islands.com/10-best-islands-live-starting-over/ Mon, 29 Dec 2014 02:48:17 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=39809 You want isolation? You want to punch the reset button? These are the places to go for the most farflung fantasies. You won’t be coming back for long weekends. Best Islands for Retiring Early | Best Islands for Raising a Family Read more in our Ultimate Best Islands to Live On Guide.

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You want isolation? You want to punch the reset button? These are the places to go for the most farflung fantasies. You won’t be coming back for long weekends.
Best Islands for Retiring Early | Best Islands for Raising a Family

Read more in our Ultimate Best Islands to Live On Guide.

Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Tonga | Move to an Island

Tonga

Dedicated expats who make it here typically live in the Vava’u group, where beachfront homes are available for less than $100,000. Even locals can’t own property (per the Tongan constitution), but long-term leaseholds are common. So are sailboats.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Vancouver Island | Move to an Island

Vancouver Island

It’s great for restless professionals. Find a literal change of scenery with all the seasons, new careers and none of the culture shock. Your first step is to see if you qualify for the Federal Skilled Worker Program, a navigable path through the immigration process for doctors, engineers, managers and other professionals.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Tuvalu | Move to an Island

Tuvalu, Fiji

It’s so remote that Fiji, 500 miles away, seems like a relative metropolis. About 10,000 people live here. The attraction for some is how social status is achieved: through kindness, not wealth.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Lombok | Move to an Island

Lombok

Our No. 1 island in 2012 is still gaining recognition for its expat migration. It’s the new Bali for those who are curious about Indonesia.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Hvar | Move to an Island

Hvar, Croatia

This is called Croatia’s sunshine isle. There are claims of it being the sunniest place in Europe, with 2,715 hours of sunshine a year. To which we say: Where do we sign up for that job, counting sunshine hours?
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Roatan | Move to an Island

Roatan, Honduras

A new beginning doesn’t have to mean a new hemisphere. Largest of the sunny Bay Islands, Roatan has enough amenities — Internet everywhere, roads to some places — to make it livable, but this isn’t Dallas. Varied landscapes — interior mountains, healthy encircling reefs — and a mixed population keep things interesting. Direct flights to and from multiple U.S. cities (including Dallas) keep visits stateside within reach. Cabin fever, homesickness — Roatan cures both.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Palau | Move to an Island

Palau

The name evokes islets of emerald green fringed in blue seas — distant blue seas. Teeming reefs and World War II shipwrecks make Palau one of the most coveted diving and snorkeling destinations on the planet. Ease of immigration and affordable housing (ocean-view homes from around $200,000) make it easy to live here. But from the “bustling” hub of Koror (population just over 13,000) to the remotest coral atolls, it’s the open-hearted people that make it worth staying.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Dominica | Move to an Island

Dominica

We’re not asking why you might want to start over — that’s between you and the bank you robbed. But Dominica’s “Economic Citizenship” program makes it possible to become a full-fledged voting national of the island nation. The required investment — $100,000 for a single applicant — may seem substantial until you consider the returns. You get a whole new point of view, out across the so-called Natural Island’s rainforests laced with waterfalls, hot springs and bright-red parrots — not to mention a whole new identity.
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: New Zealand | Move to an Island

New Zealand

We can name plenty of reasons New Zealand is a top pick for getting a fresh start: good roads, public transportation, accessible health care and solid school systems (for the total family makeover). But the No. 1 reason? Lifestyle. Thanks to safe, friendly communities, and endless outdoor activities, not to mention cultural diversity, even Kiwis who live overseas often move home to recharge. Zach Stovall
Best Islands to Live on for Starting Over: Florianopolis, Brazil | Move to an Island

Florianopolis, Brazil

Nothing says “fresh start” like Brazil. Positive reports calling lush “Floripa” one of Brazil’s best cities to live in has lured residents from around the world, creating a vibe as cosmopolitan as it is tropical. Good infrastructure, job possibilities in high-tech and tourism, and a seemingly universal willingness to celebrate anything at any time make life here convenient as well as sweet. Plus, the island has 42 beaches.

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Top 20 Best Islands to Live On https://www.islands.com/top-20-best-islands-live/ Mon, 24 Nov 2014 00:29:47 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=40774 Check out the Islands staff's top 20 best islands to live on.

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If you’re keen on the idea of island living, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of cons. Fresh, tropical fruits, soft, sandy beaches and unique, communal cultures are all part of the full package when living on an island. From prices for housing and local cuisines to distinct, cultural qualities, each island is different, though. Finding the right one for you can be difficult.

Luckily, the Islands team has surveyed expats, researched the costs and made scouting trips to the world’s most enticing islands. The result: our list of the 20 best islands to live on.

Travel Down Under to New Zealand for a true, au naturel experience (this is also one of the best places for foodies). Head to Malaysia, and put down a relatively small amount for a piece of an island in one of the most culturally packed places in the world: Southeast Asia. Looking to stay in this hemisphere, try Culebra, Puerto Rico, that’s just 15 miles off the coast of the U.S. territory.

Whatever your interests or wherever you’re looking, read on for our list of the best islands to live on.

Hvar, Croatia

No. 20 – Hvar, Croatia

Hvar, Croatia Zach Stovall

20. Hvar, Croatia

This Croatian island straddles the line dividing “historic” and “trendy.” Villas with views of the sea can be found in the $500,000 range and up. Fixer-upper stone houses and vacant lots, on the other hand, hit a much lower end of the cost spectrum. If island fever hits, ferries head to neighboring, rarely visited islands daily.

Culebra, Puerto Rico

No. 19 – Culebra, Puerto Rico

Culebra, Puerto Rico Zach Stovall

19. Culebra, Puerto Rico

Fifteen miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico is the tiny island with a public school and a year-round population of about 2,500. It’s quieter than Vieques, even. Flying a family of four to San Juan, Puerto Rico’s capital, and back to the U.S. can be done for a little more than $1,000, and the ferry to mainland Puerto Rico is only a few U.S. dollars, making it one of the best tropical places to live.

Vanuatu

No. 18 – Vanuatu

Vanuatu Jon Whittle

18. Vanuatu

The laid-back lifestyle and need for very few possessions are huge attractions to people considering a move to these South Pacific islands. The island folks are among the friendliest in the world because, as photographer Jon Whittle says, “They don’t stress themselves with the things that occupy the western world.” Beachfront homes start as low as $350,000. The town of Port Vila is more mainstream with sidewalk cafés and an amateur expat theater group.

Penang, Malaysia

No. 17 – Penang, Malaysia

Penang, Malaysia Shutterstock

17. Penang, Malaysia

Relocating here is a relatively simple process because of Malaysia’s “My Second Home Program.” Deposit $90,000 in a local bank, and you can come and go as you please on one of the cheapest islands to live on. Major residential projects have been developed recently.

Ambergris Caye, Belize

No. 16 – Ambergris Caye, Belize

Ambergris Caye, Belize Shutterstock

16. Ambergris Caye, Belize

Life moves slowly on this tax-free, English-speaking island off Belize. Transportation is by golf cart or bicycle, but telecommunications are modern. There’s a fun night-life scene in San Pedro, and, as the town’s main sign says, “You won’t be a stranger for long.” Modern resorts offer real-estate investments. Belizean Cove Estates, for example, has a three-bedroom, 2300-square-foot, furnished, beachfront villa available for sale for $800,000.

Anguilla

No. 15 – Anguilla

Anguilla Zach Stovall

15. Anguilla

Pictures of the island’s centenarian population line the walls of Anguilla’s national heritage museum, a positive sign for retirees. With enough beaches to visit one per day for a month, it’s no wonder people live to 100 here.

Bocas Del Toro, Panama

No. 14 – Bocas Del Toro, Panama

Bocas Del Toro, Panama Christopher Hahn

14. Bocas Del Toro, Panama

A solid expat community organizes barbecues and beach outings. There’s no minimum age requirement to be considered a retiree and collect benefits in Panama. We’ve seen jungle lodges (homes) listed at under $200,000. Want to get a taste of Bocas del Toro? The Red Frog Beach Island Resort & Spa offers villas, island lots, jungle lodges, residence-club units and marina slips in the most ideal setting one can imagine.

Mallorca, Spain

No. 13 – Mallorca, Spain

Mallorca, Spain Jon Whittle

13. Mallorca, Spain

The cost of living on the Spanish island is less than it is in many other European population centers, with villas and homes available from around the mid-$300s. A network of exclusive (and costly) private schools offers British curriculums and bilingual language lessons. All of that said, you can elect to pay $20 million for a perch on a rock overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

No. 12 – St. Thomas, USVI

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands Zach Stovall

12. St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

Most flights into the U.S. Virgin Islands go through St. Thomas, which helps explain why it’s home to the most expats among the USVI group. The infrastructure is hard to beat, with major home-improvement stores (you’ll be a frequent visitor) and public transportation. The result is more jobs, too. And the airport means more trips from friends and family back in the States.

Palau

No. 11 – Palau

Palau Shutterstock

11. Palau

Most islanders speak English, and the currency is the U.S. dollar. Yet, your feet are far away from other population centers: 500 miles east of the Philippines, to be exact. Those who move to this South Pacific island group typically do it for the underwater adventures.

Philippines

No. 10 – Philippines

Philippines David Haldane

10. Philippines

Yes, there’s still undeveloped, beachfront property available on Siargao Island in the Philippines. But more “supply side” real estate is in the realm of rustic homes and villas — traditional island life. One Islands contributor who moved here says he did it mostly because of the people: “Everyone is quick to smile, old and young, and that kind of attitude is contagious. You can’t put a price on it.”

Fiji

No. 9 – Fiji

Fiji Jon Whittle

9. Fiji

The expat community on Taveuni is growing because of available beachfront property and easy access to the main Fijian island of Viti Levu. English is spoken in schools, but lessons in Fijian culture are central to the curriculum. Property with ocean views and natural settings are found in the $400k range, depending on the island — often with solar power and rain-water catchments.

Kauai
Kauai Jon Whittle

8. Kauai

Beautiful American islands combining both luxury, beauty and relaxation are sometimes tough to come by. But look no further than Kauai. The average life expectancy on Kauai is among the best in the U.S., due in large part to the natural setting and fresh foods. The population density here is half of that on other Hawaiian islands, and many people drive their vehicles fewer than 1,000 miles annually. One of the island’s nicest, new communities is Kukuila, where home prices range from $2.2 million to $8 million.

Turks and Caicos
Turks and Caicos Zach Stovall

7. Turks and Caicos

The majority of people live on Providenciales (aka Provo), including expats who have obtained residency by investing at least $250,000 in property. Eight airlines offer nonstop service from the States, and tourism has created a job market. For those who want complete solitude, Middle Caicos is three times the size of Provo but with a year-long population of only about 300 people (better have a job you can do from a really remote locale).

Maui
Maui Lori Barbely

6. Maui

Maui is one of our top-three choices every year for raising a family. Children can grow up in an exotic culture but still receive an education on par with that in major American cities (or better). Field trips embrace nature: whale-watching tours, hiking and snorkeling excursions, to name a few. Being outside year-round has proven through medical studies to result in healthier and longer lives.

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

No. 5 – St. John, USVI

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands Courtesy Caneel Bay

5. St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

St. John is the most frequently mentioned island when we ask our Facebook friends where they’d consider moving. Because it’s a U.S. territory, the transition is easier than most, yet the Caribbean vibe is strong (“the happiest happy hours and breeziest open-air lunches,” according to contributor David Lahuta). The island has 7,000 acres of national park and is notoriously hilly, which means a Jeep should be in the plans, making it one of the best islands to live on.

Roatan, Honduras

No. 4 – Roatan, Honduras

Roatan, Honduras Jon Whittle

4. Roatan, Honduras

Away from Roatan’s busy West End, the main island in the Bay Island group is largely undeveloped. There’s a close-knit American expat population and a growing list of direct flights to U.S. cities.

“Expats don’t have time to rot in front of the TV,” says one local. Volunteering at places like the expat-inspired medical clinic bonds newcomers with other islanders.

Bahamas

No. 3 – Bahamas

Bahamas Lori Barbely

3. Bahamas

It’s cheating to lump the Bahamas into one spot on the top-20 list. On a sparsely developed island like Eleuthera, entrepreneurs could find a niche (the place needs auto mechanics). Out in the Exumas, it’s a different world where high-rollers have been buying private little island spits for as much as $85 million (hey, it includes a house with space for 22 people and the boats are included.

And then there’s Nassau, the melting pot. As one friend says about her family life there: “Our kids are exposed to the whole world through their classmates at school.”

New Zealand

No. 2 – New Zealand

New Zealand Zach Stovall

2. New Zealand

Away from the busy hubs of Auckland and Wellington are places like this: Mr. Nicholas Station, a working farm on the South Island. People who move to New Zealand’s more civilized regions praise the good roads, schools and health-care systems, but the biggest draw is the clean outdoors, which also means organic, fresh food and fresher air.

Hawaii's Big Island

No. 1 – Hawaii’s Big Island

Hawaii’s Big Island Jon Whittle

1. Hawaii’s Big Island

Combine all of the Hawaiian islands (Maui, Oahu, Kaunai, Lanai, Molokai and their smaller siblings), and the entire land area still doesn’t add up to Hawaii’s big island. Yet, the population is shy of 200,000, providing opportunities for a myriad of activities. One colleague who moved here more than 10 years ago says, “I wound up in a village called Volcano, atop Kilausea. To do it, I had to ignore the advice of more than few friends. I eventually admitted, ‘Yes, I’m foolish. Maybe I’ll come back to Earth in six months.’ I haven’t come down yet.”

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Why You Should Travel to Sumba, Indonesia https://www.islands.com/why-you-should-travel-sumba-indonesia/ Wed, 26 Mar 2014 23:01:34 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=41541 Unbridled. Unsaddled. Barefoot and at full gallop. After a few days of languid indulgence on the resort grounds, this thundering run is jarring me awake to my surroundings. Awake to Sumba. The real Sumba. The one I’d nearly forgotten. Sumba is one of the poorest places on Earth. Downtrodden and diseased. Ancient tribes battling with […]

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Sumba
Pasola warrier, Sumba, Indonesia (Model release #100906) R. Ian Lloyd

Unbridled. Unsaddled. Barefoot and at full gallop. After a few days of languid indulgence on the resort grounds, this thundering run is jarring me awake to my surroundings. Awake to Sumba. The real Sumba. The one I’d nearly forgotten. Sumba is one of the poorest places on Earth. Downtrodden and diseased. Ancient tribes battling with swords and spears on horseback. Animal sacrifices. Megalithic burials. Stone Age culture. It’s beautiful and barbaric. Yet here we sip lychee martinis on the porch. Eat crab cakes and chocolate mousse on a perch overlooking our private surf break. Jet Skis and infinity pools. Pedicures and warm cookies. But the maddest part of this whole lavish sacrilege is that it’s entirely humanitarian. With each oyster shooter, I am saving children. With each in-room massage, I diminish the burden of impoverished families. I’m building bridges, curing disease and easing the suffering of an entire culture. And it feels so good. Clinging desperately to the horse beneath me, I am actually saving Sumba. If I can only survive this ride.“We’re running this entire place on coconuts.” Claude Graves is a man of vision. He waves a hand at the resort he founded, Nihiwatu, which blends into the scenery. “Sure, I could be buying diesel at half the price, but that’s not the point.”

Locals harvest the coconuts. The Sumba Foundation turns them into bio-diesel. The resort buys the power. Guests get all-night air conditioning and a thumping sound system. Locals get a decent wage. Everybody benefits. And that is the point — which pretty well sums up Nihiwatu. Despite fivestar luxury, everything reciprocates with the local culture. Not that you’d notice. Lounging beside the pool. Strolling the ivory beaches. Reeling in a marlin or trading set waves. The Nihiwatu experience short-circuits notions of electricity altogether. Candles and bonfires replace flat-screens and Wi-Fi. Subtle lighting and AC barely disrupt the starlight and ocean breeze. Tranquility so absolute that …

Claude is about to say more, but he stops. He’s not boastful, but he is passionate. Nihiwatu isn’t just his resort. It’s his life. His gift. To his guest and to this Indonesian island. And we’re peeling off the wrapping one piña colada at a time. Sunset is fading. The night’s first pinholes pierce the sky. Second piña coladas slide down the bar. A bonfire blazes on the grassy bluff as surfers hunt a final ride. Our group includes a billionaire investment banker, a Hollywood actor, a honeymooning shoe designer and a pair of surf-bumming real-estate developers. Everyone has a story, but all eyes land on our host as he recounts Nihiwatu’s rough-hewn origin.

A Jersey-grown surfer, Claude walked a traveler’s life — building oil rigs in Java, pioneering Bali in the ’70s, running a nightclub in Kenya, living as a ski bum in Seattle. In the mid-’80s, he and his wife, Petra, set out with a pair of around-the-world tickets and a lofty dream for a surf resort where women don’t wind up widowed on the beach. A native experience where culture isn’t trampled. An “eco-resort” before such a term existed.

“We had this whole list of requirements,” Claude explains. “Remote and secluded. Primitive culture. Perfect sand.”

On cue, everyone checks the sandy floor. It’s pure white, but not too fine, not too coarse. Silky but not squeaky.

“We took samples everywhere,” he says. “I still have all the vials. Nihiwatu has the most perfect sand in the world.”

Philippines, Africa, Indonesia — Claude and Petra were touring coastlines on the moon. In each locale they’d hire guides, take buses, hike in, camp out — whatever it took, and more, to reach the unreachable. When their path fell into the sea, Claude would paddle out with a surfboard and mask to explore the reefs and sample the waves.

In those days, just getting to Sumba, tucked in the Lesser Sunda Islands, was an adventure. By bus and then on foot, Claude and Petra wandered remote and untested regions populated by fierce tribes. On their second Sumba trip, they found this bay. Perfect waves. Perfect sand. Their holy grail. And then it got really tough. They built roads. They wooed local government. They evolved from a few workers to a staff of 300. Founding Nihiwatu became their lives. Robinson Crusoe meets Frank Lloyd Wright. It took 10 years before Nihiwatu was ready to open in

1996, only to see everything destroyed by a massive 7.0 earthquake. Then came an Asian economic crisis. Another four years passed before Nihiwatu would open.

Malaria? “I stopped counting after the 36th time.”

Wildlife? “Petra once climbed into a drainpipe to remove a 5-meter python clogging the system.”

Life changes? “Our daughter Gina was born while we were building this place — the Sumbanese gave her a royal name. She loves all animals and refused to bathe without one. Today she rides horses even the locals refuse to mount.”

After the family spent years just trying to survive, Gina rekindled her parents’ original vision. Claude set up a play group for Gina and was shocked at the contrast between his daughter and the local children.

“Here was Gina crawling around looking robust and full of life, while her playmates appeared nearly dead. The youngest could not lift their heads, and the parents weren’t looking so good either.”

Soon after, Claude mentioned his new plan to a friend.

“I’m creating something called the Sumba Foundation,” he said. “I’m going to devote my life to it.”

Now Claude turns to me, the nonbillionaire journalist. He wants me to see for myself.

“You should have Dato take you up to his village,” he says. “See what’s really going on.”

Before we enter his village, Dato sits me down on a rock outside the fortifying walls. There’s something he needs to tell me. Dato has worked for Nihiwatu since construction started 18 years ago. A former fistfighting champ, Dato smiles, revealing his missing front teeth. Like most Sumbanese men, he wears a sword in his belt. So, I’m listening.

“Before Nihiwatu came to Sumba,” he says, “many, many children were dying in our village. We had no food. Much sickness. Women walk for all day to bring the water.”

Villages like Dato’s are all built on tops of hills. Great for defense, not so good for bathing. Women are tasked with daily hikes, hours each way, to carry water home for cooking and cleaning. One of the main priorities of the Sumba Foundation has been establishing water sources, wells and pumps. In villages on the parched island, water is a blessing. Dato stands in the narrow stone entryway to his village and demonstrates how it was used to defend against attackers, slashing the air with a not-quite-imaginary sword.

“Please,” he says, indicating for me to lead. “You are welcome here.”

Dogs bark. Pigs scatter. Roosters crow. I’m nervous about entering, and doubly nervous about going first. Amid the stilted huts, megalithic stone burial sites adorn the village. The Sumbanese are among the last remaining cultures to continue this practice. Their elaborate, animistic funeral proceedings are an archaeological fascination, and photographic documentations are frightfully graphic. Two women are working a traditional loom under a large banyan tree. They wave me over to watch. Other villagers take notice. Children peer out from huts adorned with buffalo skulls and … are those human scalps? Dato nods yes. Slowly, the village is warming up to me. Children emerge with soccer balls and stick swords. Men offer cigarettes and betel nut. I cringe at their blackened, rotting teeth and politely refuse. They return smiles. If I’m with Dato, I’m with Nihiwatu. And if I’m with Nihiwatu, I am welcome. Dato shows me the water tanks. Old women pump water mere yards from their doorsteps. My back aches as I envision these same women hiking the hillside, careful not to slosh the buckets of water they carried.

He leads me to his home, barely bigger than a treehouse, where he lives with his wife, in-laws and six children. We climb inside and a toddler stokes the central fire. Dato reclines on his bamboo shelf and lights a cigarette. A man at home.

“We keep animals below,” he explains. “We live in the middle and make storage above. I was born in this house.”

I ask if it’s odd to spend his days serving millionaires at the resort and then return to such simplicity. Instead of answering, Dato tells me the story of a girl in his village who became very sick. Nihiwatu sent a car to deliver her to the hospital and then paid her expenses until she recovered.

“She would have died,” he says.

Dato’s toddler finishes the fire andcrawls into her father’s lap. To a child, it is luxury.

“Do you ride a horse?” I ask Dato.

“Of course,” he says. “Everyone does.”

Thundering down the beach. This wild beast. This perfect sand. I’m now vividly aware of Sumba. Before Nihiwatu, I couldn’t have found it on Google. These people worship animal spirits. Fertilize their fields with blood. Like the Maasai or the Aborigines, they are a culture that history left behind. And now they’re mixing my martini and it isn’t even awkward. Here in a place where water buffalo suffice as currency, the butter knife is in exactly the right spot. Pillows are expertly fluffed. Cocktails are cleverly garnished. Claude and Petra teach the resort staff English. Train them in service. And then let them wear their swords to work. Sumba heritage isn’t whitewashed. It’s celebrated. Maybe it’s the 13 bungalows and villas here. Maybe it’s the communal dining or the sheer remoteness of it all. But something about this place brings people together. Even the honeymooners take time apart to laugh with new friends.

“Half of these people are return guests,” Claude tells me with a mix of humility and pride. “They could afford to stay anywhere in the world, but they keep coming back here. They’re also the ones who keep the Foundation running.”

Nihiwatu isn’t shy about accepting donations. The guests aren’t just generous tippers; they’re family. It isn’t long before you’re on a first-name basis with men wearing swords. One holds my hand as we climb the cobblestone stairs after a day of surfing, and it’s not strange at all.

“Coming back from fishing today,” the Hollywood actor tells me, “one of the boat hands put his head in my lap and took a little nap. People are just more affectionate here.”

It’s true. I don’t feel intrusive asking the bartender how many buffalo he paid for his wife (20) or what he had to do to earn his sword (I can’t repeat). I completely understand why people return year after year. Or why someone might try to ride the horses even if they’re warned against it. Yeah, they all warned me.

“The local animals are a bit wild,” says Claude, trying one last time to convince me. “I keep meaning to bring some tamer ones over from Bali. How about riding the Jet Ski instead?”

When I politely refuse, he asks the stable master, Adi, to walk the horse for me. Walk the horse? Sorry, Adi, but I’m not connecting to Sumba’s primal horse culture with you holding the leash. Adi shrugs — the guest is always right — and off I go, forgetting even to ask the horse’s name.

We’re fine along the mountain trails, skirting ridges and crossing fields of grazing buffalo. We pass through a village and pause for a hilltop vista, then meander down to the beach. But now the horse can see the stable. She senses that we’re basically done and, like any minimum-wage employee on a Friday afternoon, she bolts. No amount of whoa -ing or reining can dissuade her from punching out early.

Rattling down the beach, I see Nihiwatu in the distance, barely visible against the breathtaking hillside. Nearby, Nihiwatu 2.0 is taking shape. Three hundred workers are creating the next evolution of Claude’s grand vision.

“We’re integrating environmental resources that won’t be commercially available for five years,” he says.

“Stuff that works with the environment instead of against it.”

And there it is. With, not against. The key to the Nihiwatu system, to life in this place, and perhaps to surviving this ride. I relax my grip, lean forward on her back and let the horse run free. OK, it’s not quite a scene from Snowy River, but I do arrive at the stable in a mostly seated position. Adi is unimpressed. He doesn’t hold my hand or put his head in my lap, just leads the horse to graze. Still, I’m feeling good. Accomplished. Alive. I return to the beach on trembling legs. Heart pounding. Sun setting. Then I notice a young boy galloping toward me along the tide line on a striking white pony. His legs are wrapped around the animal’s powerful neck; he has just a handful of the pony’s mane. Part third-world acrobatics, part equestrian wrestling, and Sumba all the way. I offer a wave as the horse tramples past, and the child risks his grip to return the gesture. His teeth are perfect.

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Pasola: The Blood Sport of Sumba https://www.islands.com/pasola-blood-sport-sumba/ Sat, 22 Mar 2014 03:45:50 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=39291 The post Pasola: The Blood Sport of Sumba appeared first on Islands.

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