Labor Day is over and autumn is on the horizon. So once there’s a chill in the air — and rather than drinking rum punch under a palm tree, you’re in the mood to sip warm cider beneath a majestic golden maple — where should you go to enjoy autumn in all its glory? Here are eight islands known for their fall colors.

Mount Desert Island, Maine

Home to Acadia National Park, Maine’s Mount Desert Island becomes a spectacular patchwork of autumn colors in early- to mid-October. Temperatures might be a bit brisk (in the 40s and 50s), but the fresh air is perfect for a hike to the summit of 1,530-foot Cadillac Mountain. Prefer to sightsee by car? Drive the 27-mile Park Loop Road to check out the beauty of Sand Beach, the views from Otter Cliff and the crystalline waters of Jordan Pond, where your can enjoy lobster rolls and chowder in the Jordan Pond House restaurant.

Honshu Island, Japan

Japanese red maples — need we say more? The temples of the ancient city of Kyoto on Japan’s main island of Honshu are even more stunning when surrounded by the intense crimson hues of its native fall foliage. Colors tend to peak in early to mid-November and there’s an array of top leaf-viewing spots from which to choose: Honen-in Temple, Ginkaku-ji Temple and Nanzen-ji Temple as well as Sento-Gosho Garden and the mountain village of Takao. Crowds swell on weekends (the Japanese love leaf-peeping, too), so plan to visit midweek.

Mackinac Island, Michigan

Travel back more than a century in time as you celebrate fall on this car-free Michigan island that’s located where Lake Michigan meets Lake Huron and is home to the legendary Grand Hotel, built in 1887, and hundreds of horse-drawn carriages. Peak foliage occurs from late September to late October (ferries run until Oct. 31) and it’s the perfect time to rent a bike and ride the 8-mile trail that circles the island to experience its many charms: Victorian mansions along East Bluff; late-blooming dahlias in the Grand Hotel’s flower beds; the rocky, postcard-perfect shorelines; and the golden maples and red oaks around Fort Mackinac.

The British Isles

Take your pick of England, Ireland, Scotland or Wales — but we especially love the fall colors in England’s Lake District. Rolling hills, tidy villages and meandering back roads set the scene as native trees and plants that include oak, beech, birch and heather color the landscape with painterly shades of red, yellow, orange and purple. From Derwent Water to Windermere, there are fireplaces galore to get cozy in front of and ample pints of local craft beer to down. Foliage tends to peak in early October, but if you can’t make it then, November 5 is Bonfire Night (aka Guy Fawkes Night — a four-century-old tradition), when fireworks and bonfires provide a color show of another sort.

Prince Edward Island, Canada

Anne of Green Gables may be the fictional redheaded heroine of this island in Canada’s Eastern provinces, but from mid-September to late October, fiery red maples and brilliant yellow birches are the stars. In autumn, Prince Edward Island is a haven of relaxation, offering walking, hiking and biking trails as well as a rich harvest of local fruits, vegetables and seafood. If oysters, mussels, lobster and other tasty ocean treats are your favorites, time your visit to coincide with the annual PEI International Shellfish Festival in mid-September as the leaves are just beginning to change.

San Juan Islands, Washington

Catch a ferry from Anacortes across Puget Sound to one of these rugged Washington State islands — San Juan, Orcas and Lopez being the main three — and you’ll feel instantly relaxed. And with summer crowds a distant memory, the pace is laid-back and temperatures range from the mid-60s in September to around 50 in November. Discover the region’s flavors during farm tours, beer tastings and harvest dinners with special “Savor the San Juans” events throughout fall. As for the foliage, Garry oaks and big leaf maples add splashes of color to the velvety forests of firs, hemlocks and cedars.

New York, New York

Yes, the island of Manhattan is mostly asphalt and concrete, and yet the nature-blessed oases it does have — Central Park, Riverside Park, the Cloisters — put on a pretty amazing autumnal show from mid-October to mid-November. You can jog through a “shower” of gently falling leaves on the Mall in Central Park or pose for a selfie by the Bow Bridge with its backdrop of golden branches. Riverside Park’s walking trails are enveloped in a canopy of color and the medieval sculptures and gardens of Upper Manhattan’s Cloisters become even more inviting. Frank Sinatra chose to record Autumn in New York for a reason.

Assateague Island, Maryland and Virginia

Why settle for fall colors when you can see magnificent wild horses, too? Assateague Island, located on the Eastern Shore and divided equally between Maryland and Virginia, is home to both. Its coastal groundcover turns vivid yellow and deep red by late October and early November (but be careful to avoid the poison ivy!) and the 300 horses, also referred to as ponies, freely roam the island’s state and national parks in small groups. You can get within a safe viewing distance (40 feet or more) several ways: wildlife cruises, kayak tours, bike rides or leisurely drives around the island. Just remember, these horses are feral and should not be approached or petted.

The post 8 Best Islands for Fall Foliage appeared first on Islands.

Europe is home to some of the world’s most-celebrated seas – the Mediterranean, the Adriatic, the Aegean – and its cultural mosaic makes it a top choice for beach-lovers looking to mix sun, fun, art, history and nightlife.

Windsurf in the morning, visit ancient ruins in the afternoon, and shop for the season’s hottest beachwear before enjoying sunset cocktails and partying until dawn. All this sound ideal? Read on for our list of the 9 best beach vacations in Europe.

Mykonos, Greece

Few places do charm and decadence better than Mykonos. This sunny Greek island’s calling cards are almost-anything-goes beaches (expect plenty of skin), Instagram-worthy Cycladic architecture (whitewashed buildings with brightly hued shutters and cascading flower boxes), 16th-century windmills (a must-see at sunset) and legendary discos and dance clubs in Mykonos Town.

As for the beaches, check out Ornos Bay for pretty views and excellent windsurfing, chic Psarou for celebrity spotting and Paradise and Super Paradise for hedonistic sun-worshipping and dancing until sunrise or one of the best beach vacations in Europe.

Mallorca, Spain

This beautiful Mediterranean oasis, the largest of the Balearic Islands located off the east coast of Spain, is a hot spot for northern Europeans who flock here in summer to enjoy long days of sunshine and fresh air. Once you get beyond the urban sprawl of the capital, Palma, mountainous, bay-fringed Mallorca delivers some of the region’s most amazing azure water and soft-sand beaches (there are more than 250) for one of the best European beach vacations.

The view from the water is pretty incredible, too: centuries-old hilltop villages constructed of golden stone backed by peaceful olive groves and vineyards.

Hvar, Croatia

In between swimming, sunning and windsurfing, visitors to this summer-resort island, located in the Adriatic off of Croatia’s coast near Split, can tour a 13th-century fortress and cathedral, go wine-tasting (if you haven’t tried Croatian wine, this is a must) and, in June and July, inhale the heavenly aroma of lavender, which grows in abundance here.

Hvar’s beaches are known for their intense, scenic beauty, as many are set in serene bays surrounded by cliffs and pine forests. Tempting options include Dubovica, Zavala and Ivan Dolac.

Ibiza, Spain

It helps to be young to enjoy the 24/7 frenzy that is Ibiza, the wildest isle in the Mediterranean, thanks to its world-famous clubs blasting dance music. Should you be awake when the sun’s shining, top activities on Ibiza, which is also one of Spain’s Balearic Islands, include music festivals, beach-going (Cala D’Hort has a view of the distinctive Es Vedra rock formation) and scuba-diving, since visibility here is superb at one of the best European beach destinations.

Siciliy, Italy

If you’re a fan of old-school destinations – scenic, slow-paced and filled with tradition – you can’t go wrong with Sicily. This Italian island, the largest in the Mediterranean, is home to stunning beaches, yummy treats (such as ricotta-filled cannoli and meat-filled rice balls called arancini (both invented here)) and ancient Greek and Roman ruins dating back several millennia.

Sicily also boasts Europe’s most active volcano: Mount Etna. Book a beach resort for maximum access to sun and sand, or stay in charming hilltop Taormina, and day-trip to beaches, such as Isola Bella or Giardini Naxos.

The Algarve, Portugal

The hot Iberian sun shines along the southern coast of Portugal 300 days a year. In summer, the region receives very little rain, so it’s no surprise that the Algarve ranks among the top beach destinations in Europe.

It’s also incredibly pretty and quite affordable, with a variety of hotels, rental apartments and homes located in cities and villages stretching from Sagres in the east to Villa Real in the west. In between are more than 150 beaches, with Praia da Falésia near Albufeira, Praia da Camilo near Lagos and Praia da Marinha near Lagoa, featuring photogenic limestone cliffs.

Crete, Greece

As Greek Isles beaches go, Crete has some of the best. But Greece’s largest island is also its most geologically diverse, so beaches here range from sweeping and tranquil to compact and crowded.

For the former, head to Balos Lagoon near Kissamos on the west coast or Elafonisi Beach, also in Western Crete, with its pink sand. For the latter, there’s Vai Beach near Sitia in the northeast, which is backed by Europe’s largest natural palm grove, and Matala Beach on the south coast, where you can follow your swim with a seafood lunch at a local taverna.

Cornwall, England

There are hundreds of beaches along this rugged peninsula on the Atlantic in Southwest England, some ideal for surfing, others for beachcombing and others for seaside shopping and dining. It’s all incredibly wild and moody, the kind of setting that’s equally inspiring artists and adventure-lovers.

For pure visual delight, it’s hard to beat the beaches around St. Ives, especially Porthmeor, while Kynance Cove seduces at first sight with its unblemished natural beauty. Add in fishing villages, like Mevagissey and Polperro, and you’ll discover how Cornwall charms visitors with a raw authenticity that’s becoming ever harder to find these days.

Sardinia, Italy

On this vast Italian island, the second-largest in the Mediterranean, it’s possible to be a jetsetter or a backpacker: Step back in time while strolling tiny villages or channel the 21st century while sunning on a modern mega-yacht; visit ancient temples, or enjoy the latest youth-enhancing spa treatment.

Long celebrated for its talcum-soft beaches and clear aquamarine water, Sardinia’s alluring Costa Smeralda has been a summer hot spot since the mid-1960s. Yet the island also has a harsh interior landscape that has shaped the local mindset and cuisine (fava beans, sheep’s milk cheese and lamb with artichokes compete with seafood and pasta on many menus). But it’s Sardinia’s coastal beauty that has made it envied the world over.

The post 9 Best Beach Vacations in Europe appeared first on Islands.

Warning: spoilers for the first six seasons ahead.

Dubrovnik, Croatia – King’s Landing

It’s easy to see why the “Pearl of the Adriatic” was chosen as the setting for King’s Landing. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with buildings dating back to the 13th century. The churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains in Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles, along with a postcard-worthy seaside location, lend themselves perfectly to the fictional southern metropolis that’s fit for a king. In the final episode of season 6, Cersei Lannister looks out over the iconic orange-tiled roofs while she waits to burn all her enemies to the ground.

Essaouira, Morocco – Astapor

The Marrakech medina can be a sensory overload. For a more laid-back experience, head to this hip beach town instead, where you’ll find a similar shopping experience within the whitewashed medina walls — and without the pressure to buy. Grab lunch at the fish stalls for a fresh (and cheap) catch of the day, or ride a camel on the beach. Don’t miss the Portuguese Fort: this is the spot in the fourth episode of season three that Daenerys orders her new Unsullied army to kill all the slave masters, and commands her dragon Drogon to burn Kraznys mo Nakloz.

Portstewart Strand, Northern Ireland – Dorne

Owned and managed by the National Trust, this 2-mile golden strand on County Derry’s northern coast is one of the country’s best beaches. You might recognize the 6,000-year-old sand dunes from a scene in episode six of season five, when Jamie Lannister and Bronn arrive in Dorne. The scenes where they are discovered by Dornish guards, and the fight where the duo kills them, were also filmed in this area.

Ballintoy, Northern Ireland – Iron Islands

“What is dead may never die” in the quaint seaside village of Ballintoy. Located in County Antrim, the town has served as the backdrop for several Iron Islands scenes throughout the series. The Ballintoy Harbour was featured in season two, when Theon Greyjoy sails back from Winterfell and meets his sister Yara. Scenes were filmed in the surrounding areas for exterior shots of Pyke and the Kingsmoot.

Dark Hedges, Northern Ireland – Kingsroad

Straight out of a fairy tale, one of the most photographed spots in Northern Ireland served as the Kingsroad. It’s shown in episode two of season one, when Ned Stark agrees to become the Hand of the King and rides south with Robert Baratheon. (If only we could tell him to turn back!) The beech trees were planted by the Stuart family in the 18th century to impress visitors as they arrived to Gracehill House.

Alcázar of Seville, Spain – Dorne

Seville’s royal palace was the perfect setting for House Martell in Dorne. Built in 712 as a fortress, the UNESCO World Heritage Site became a royal residence in the 13th century. The Moorish-built castle and its surrounding formal gardens with pools and fountains served at Dorne’s Water Gardens, where gout-ridden Doran Martell, confined to a wheelchair, spends most of his days. Several scenes for season five were filmed here, including Myrcella Baratheon walking with Trystane Martell, Ellaria Sand confronting Doran Martell to avenge Oberyn’s death, and the fight between the Sand Snakes and Jamie Lannister and Bronn.

Thingvellir National Park, Iceland – Various

This stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site was used for several Game of Thrones filming locations. The Almannagjá gorge served as the road to the Eyrie, where Catelyn Stark took Tyrion Lannister in season 1. In season 4, episode 1, Tormund Giantsbane and Ygritte made camp along the rocky canyons in the park, and were soon introduced to the Thenns. But it’s probably most recognizable as the backdrop to the fight scene between Brienne and the Hound in season 4, episode 10.

Downhill Strand, Northern Ireland – Dragonstone

“The night is dark and full of terrors” on this scenic beach in County Londonderry, where the Red Woman, Melisandre, and Stannis Baratheon burned the Seven Gods in season 4, episode 2. Mussenden Temple, built in the 18th century and one of the most photographed icons in the country, presides over the shore.

Grjotagja, Iceland – Cave Beyond the Wall

In season 3, episode 5, Jon Snow and Ygritte steal away to a grotto to, ahem, you know. The gorgeous filming location is Iceland’s Grjotagja, a natural hot spring heated by volcanic activity that is a frequent bathing spot for locals.

The post ‘Game of Thrones’ Filming Locations You Can Visit appeared first on Islands.

Belize

Calling all lobster lovers: celebrate the opening harvest season of the crustacean at Lobster Fest. Bring your appetite for this 10-day all-you-can-eat event held in San Pedro, Placencia, and Caye Caulker, as the price of lobster is at its lowest. Take a break between meals and chat with local fishermen, participate in lobster-themed water sports and dance the night (and calories) away at the beach parties.

Hong Kong

Celebrated for more than 2,000 years, the three-day Duanwu Festival (dragon boat festival) commemorates the death of the patriotic poet Qu Yuan who drowned himself in the Miluo River when the Chu capital fell to the Qin army. Chinese communities honor him every year with traditional customs including dragon boat racing, where locals paddle out in colorful boats and beat drums to keep the fish and evil spirits away from his body. Other customs include drinking realgar wine (known in ancient times to drive away evil spirits) and eating sticky rice dumplings or zongzi.

England

Head to the Stonehenge Summer Solstice Festival to observe the sun reaching its highest point in the sky on June 21. Gather around Stonehenge and camp out at this four-day festival to celebrate the longest day of the year. Craft beer, food vendors and live music are also on deck.

Nantucket, Massachusetts

Brother and sister team Jill and Jonathan Burkhart founded the Nantucket Film Festival in 1996, and now the event is one of the biggest in the film industry. Screen indie movies and Hollywood’s next blockbusters, watch round-table discussions, and attend events with special guests like Ben Stiller, Adam Driver, Mike Birbiglia and Whitney Cummings.

New Zealand

Want to escape the summer heat? Head to the Queenstown Winter Festival celebrating the official start of ski season. The four-day extravaganza includes competitions for mountain biking, dodgeball, disc golf and raft racing. Grab your luggage to compete in the suitcase race down the mountain, which kicks off the opening night of night skiing.

St. Kitts

The annual St. Kitts Music Festival kicks off with a three-night event featuring local artists alongside mainstream musicians. Top performers this year include Lauryn Hill, Fetty Wap and Patti Labelle.

Thailand

Starting in June and running through August, the Blooming Krachiao Flower Festival celebrates the peak time to see the fully bloomed bright-pink Siam Tulip, or Dok Krachiao. The best spots to observe these flowers is the Sai Thong National Park: walk through the Bua Sawan flower field or perch atop the Pha Ham Hot spot to get clifftop views of the Phang Hoei mountain range and blooming tulips below.

Bahamas

It’s a non-stop pineapple party with the annual Pineapple Festival. The yearly event honors the hardworking pineapple farmers in Gregory Town, Eleuthera. Partake in pineapple-themed activities from cooking and eating contests to a pineathalon, comprised of a 400-meter swim, 10K bike ride and a 5K run.

The post Best Places to Travel in June appeared first on Islands.

“Sure, they sound amazing, but I can’t afford a private-island resort. I’ll have to fly to the other side of the world. Plus I bet I’ll get bored…” We’ve heard all the old myths about private-island resorts. Now it’s time we busted them.

Myth No. 1: I’ll be bored without Wi-Fi.

Petit St. Vincent

“You should see the look on teenagers’ faces when I tell them there’s no Wi-Fi,” says Matthew, the general manager, as he tours us around Petit St. Vincent, a secluded haven in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. “It usually takes them about 24 hours to break the habit and adjust.” Forget teenagers, I think to myself. What are we going to do?

Morning arrives, and I awake in our beachfront two-bedroom, private island villa (the size of a house) to admire the sun rising above the sea. Sighing happily, I immediately grab my phone. Oh, wait. Is this really how I start my mornings: with a social media fix? What better place to detox than here? I fight the urge to run to the lobby, the only place to get connected on the island, and instead go to my villa’s flag pulley system. I lower the red flag (do not disturb) and hoist the yellow to summon a butler to bring breakfast. I could certainly get used to this.

Throughout the week, we’re challenged to fill our time sans iPhone apps. Should we opt for a massage at the new spa? Sign up for a PADI lesson at the Jean-Michel Cousteau dive center? Hike up Marni Hill for a view of the island? Yes, but first we grab complimentary snorkeling gear and head for the water. The West Side Beach has little privacy nooks, each with a hammock, two lounge chairs and a dining table. Without mindlessly scrolling through Facebook, I have the time to read a paperback book. How analog. The 24-hour adjustment is slowly working.

We sail on the resort’s sloop Beauty to the protected Tobago Cays, where we snorkel with turtles. We watch a James Bond movie on the beach and attend a reggae beach party with nutmeg-dusted rum drinks. I can’t imagine being bored on an island like this. On our last day, we sail a Hobie Cat (with assistance) to Mopion Island, a tiny sandbar straight out of Pirates of the Caribbean. From the uninhabited isle, we have the perfect vantage of the resort. I snap a pic, knowing I can’t post it on Instagram just yet. That’s OK. Right now, I want to keep this place all to myself. From $1,100 per night
– Rebecca Kinnear

Petit St. Vincent

When to go: Low season, May through mid-December, offers better rates and special deals like free nights and an all-inclusive option, but the resort is closed September and October.

How to get there: First, fly to Barbados (BGI). From there, Mustique Airways provides a flight to Union Island; then it’s a 20-minute boat ride to the resort.

Must-pack: Without access to TVs or Wi-Fi, bring a tablet preloaded with plenty of books.

Myth No. 2: I have to be in the 1 percent.

Scrub Island

A recent self-realization: I like my beaches secluded. Towels placed edge-to-edge on a crowded stretch of sand isn’t my idea of getting away from it all. But I always thought my only shot at a private island resort would be if I somehow cozied up to Richard Branson at a party (hey, it could happen). Seclusion comes at a cough-inducing cost — or so I thought.

That is, until I found myself kayaking through crystal-clear water to Scrub Island’s Honeymoon Beach, a quick five-minute trip from the boating-and-beaching resort. Feeling like an explorer, I washed up on shore as the only inhabitant — the peace and quiet was perfect for collecting shells and admiring the cliffside homes just across the sea.

Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina, a 1.5-mile stretch of the British Virgin Islands that Christopher Columbus discovered in the 1500s, remained virtually uninhabited until about 15 years ago — it was where pirates once stopped to scrub the barnacles off their boats, hence the name. Now, the namesake resort’s 52 Marina Village rooms and nine private villas discretely dot the coast, looking down a Technicolor trio of blue water, white sand and green palm trees. The landscape is hilly, the air crisp and quiet, the vibe nautical chic (be prepared to rub elbows with the yachtgoers docked at the 55-slip marina) and the spacious rooms all have VIP views of the endless sea. The location feels thoroughly exclusive, but no private plane is required: I hopped on a commercial puddle-jumper from San Juan to Tortola, where the Scrub Island ferry was poised to meet me for the 10-minute trip (and greet me with rum punch).

I dove right in — to the tiny infinity plunge pool at Ixora Spa after I stumbled, deliriously relaxed, out of a destress massage ($135 for 60 minutes). There were slightly more people — maybe 12 — at North Beach on the other side of the island, but we each managed to find our own little pocket of lounge chair and sand, and we swam and snorkeled with only groupings of coral and seaweed between us. More social guests can hang at the three levels of pools, complete with a hot tub and a waterslide.

You might have to lift a finger at the pool to spread out your own towel or flag down a waiter if you want a Scrub-tini — there are no butlers here. Then again, at $12, that cocktail will taste so much better than the $50-per-glass Champagne cart at other resorts. Even the little on-island shop doesn’t have the same sticker shock of other resort boutiques — a rather handsome Indian cotton caftan was only $45.

Sure, there are sailing excursions to the cays of Jost Van Dyke and The Baths at Virgin Gorda, or you can venture to the barefoot-casual Pusser’s restaurant on Marina Cay island in high season, but frankly, I wasn’t interested in public islands this time around. Over a dinner of red snapper ceviche and sweet plantains at the alfresco Tierra! Tierra!, my fellow private islanders were happily clinking glasses. A keyboard player launched into reggae tunes. We’re all secluded together, and it’s divine. Rooms from $308 per night.
– Brooke Showell

Scrub Island

When to go: Summer offers the same balmy weather at low-season rates, and you might even be able to score a coveted villa.

How to get there: Fly into San Juan (SJU), and take one of the local carriers, Cape Air or Seaborne Airlines, to Tortola (stay tuned for BVI Airways’ highly anticipated daily direct flights between Miami and Tortola). The Scrub Island team will meet you at the airport for the free, 15-minute ferry transfer to the resort.

Must-pack: Since snorkeling gear comes at an extra cost at the dive shop, bring your own mask.

Myth No. 3: I have to fly across the world.

Little Palm Island

It would be easy to imagine myself on the shores of an isolated Tahitian island. The color of the water is the same shimmering turquoise, giving way to an impenetrable blue where the shallow water sinks into the depths. The same magnificent frigate birds hang lazily overhead, staying vigilant of any potential meal that might rise to the surface of the sea. But it didn’t take me an eight-hour flight to find myself on Little Palm Island, just a 20 minute boat ride from Little Torch Key in the Florida Keys. Every moment that ticks by on the journey brings you a little further back in time, preparing you for an arrival on the quiet banks of this luxurious, private island resort where you’ll find no phones, TVs or Internet to distract. And a big plus for an old curmudgeon like me: no guests under 16 years of age allowed.

Little Palm Island is not a large private island, coming in at 5½ acres of lush foliage ringed by sandy shores. Between the gently swaying palm trees, 30 oceanfront suites and a historic great room stand ready to receive relaxation-seeking guests. A modest pool flanked by a bar and an oversize chessboard wait for anyone looking to do more than soak up some sun. Closer to the lee shore, an activity desk is manned and ready to issue boats and kayaks free of charge to adventurers curious to explore the nearby waters. Of course, there’s also a spa, just in case you need to let go of the stresses from the modern world. There’s no shortage of ways to exhaust the daylight before retreating to private hot tubs and gas fire pits on the beaches behind each bungalow.

Evening has arrived, heralded by an orange sun slipping behind the islands in the distance, and the arrival of one of the island’s most celebrated guests: the miniature Key deer. These adorable, endangered critters actually swim to Little Palm Island through the chain of islands to the north. Though they can be a nuisance at dinner (they do tend to enjoy putting both front hooves on the table and inhaling expensive, exquisitely prepared food), it’s hard to be angry at an eight-point buck that’s no larger than a German shepherd. Torches glow on the peninsular beach while water laps softly nearby, providing the perfect soundtrack for dining on the sand. I’ll be back on a boat home in the morning, returning to the noise of humanity, but for now I’ll enjoy the bliss of being here, away from it all. One more drink can’t hurt as I watch the little silhouettes of deer strolling along the shores, and I forget for a little longer that there’s something else in the world beyond the edge of the torchlight. From $1,190 per night.
– Jon Whittle

Little Palm Island

When to go: The summer months, June through September, bring soaring temps, hurricane season and mosquitoes. The rest of the year is ideal.

How to get there: Fly into Miami, Key West or Marathon and take scenic U.S. Highway 1 to the resort’s welcome station on Little Torch Key. A signature cocktail and shuttle to the resort on their yacht, Truman, are complimentary. For amazing views, arrive via Tropic Ocean Airways’ private seaplane from mainland Florida or the Bahamas.

Must-pack: Bringing along a few bottles of wine or booze wouldn’t be the worst idea in the world. Plus, since the resort is in the U.S., there’s no need to declare anything on a customs form.

Myth No. 4: I have to go somewhere tropical.

Eriska Hotel & Spa

You don’t need beaches for an idyllic getaway as I discovered at Isle of Eriska Hotel & Spa, a 300-acre private island off the west coast of Scotland. With stunning views of Loch Creran and the Morven Hills and amenities like a spa, a nine-hole golf course and a Michelin-starred restaurant, who needs palm trees?

Owner Beppo Buchanan-Smith drives me across the Victorian-era bridge and ushers me into the baronial mansion, built in 1844. The turrets make me feel like a princess. My sprawling Aruba Garden Suite (ironically named after the Caribbean’s most arid island) has a living room with a gas fireplace, a glass conservatory, a large bedroom, a huge bathroom, and a patio Jacuzzi. I want to stay, but afternoon tea is being served in the Big House, so I head for the turrets.

Melting into a comfy sofa in front of a crackling fire in the wood-paneled drawing room, I tuck into freshly baked scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Feeling to the manor born, I stroll around my kingdom before returning for pre-dinner drinks in the library. “May I pour a glass of wine for you?” the bartender asks. But of course.

The next afternoon, I go for a hike. The weather is best described as changeable (read: rainy, windy), but when I climb up to Sir Ian’s Point, named for a former owner, the views of distant islands and misty hills are postcard perfect. There was nowhere I would rather be. From $244 per night.
— Robin Cherry

Isle of Eriska

When to go: March through October for the best weather.

How to get there: To reach the island, you can rent a car or take the train from either Edinburgh or Glasgow. By car (the best option if you’re comfortable driving on the left), the trip takes just over two hours. The train to Connel Ferry takes roughly three. Connel Ferry is five minutes from the private island resort, and you can arrange for someone to pick you up or take a taxi.

Must-pack: Scotland’s western highlands are one of Europe’s rainiest places. Don’t forget your rain gear and waterproof hiking boots (but if you do, the hotel has Wellies you can borrow).

The post 4 Private-Island Resort Myths Busted appeared first on Islands.

1. SEYCHELLES

Spread across 175 square miles of the Indian Ocean, this chain of 115 islands has become (slightly) more accessible with the introduction of Crystal Cruises‘ first small-capacity yacht, Crystal Esprit. The 62-guest, all-suite ship will spend its maiden season sailing into some of the smaller ports of call in the Seychelles, departing from Dubai. If you prefer to remain on land, The H Resort Beau Vallon Beach debuted this past August as the only five-star beachfront hotel in Mahé, the archipelago’s largest island. And come spring, Six Senses Zil Pasyon will open on its own 640-acre isle; even if you don’t opt to stay in one of the 47 villas that make up the resort, you can still boat over for meals or drinks. When to go: Year-round; the islands sit outside the cyclone belt.

2. COZUMEL

In 2016, travel to this Mexican isle will be easier — and less expensive. A new ferry company, Barcos Caribe Cozumel, will shuttle travelers from Playa del Carmen, raising the total number of boat companies serving the island to three. Once on Cozumel, wander through the revamped gardens and fountains at Parque Benito Juarez, which offers free Wi-Fi, and breathe deeply at the world’s first underwater oxygen bar, Clear Lounge Cozumel. Also underwater: new exploratory dives to sites with pristine reefs are being led just north of the island. After dark, stargaze from the astrological observatory at the new Cha’an Ka’an Cozumel Planetarium. When to go: January through July, but avoid spring break.

3. HAIDA GWAII, CANADA

Off the coast of British Columbia, Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) houses some 5,000 people on its 150 islands. Accommodations are limited to just two of these, Graham and Moresby, which together see about 24,000 visitors a year. Annual tourism to Gwaii Haanas National Park, however, is capped at just 2,000. Enter Steppes Travel, with an easier, more comfortable way to explore the destination. Its brand-new, May-to-July itinerary includes seven nights on Swell, a century-old tugboat turned six-cabin, 12-passenger expedition cruising ship. You’ll observe a variety of wildlife — humpback whales, black bears and bald eagles — and visit several cultural sites, including SGang Gwaay Haida village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to see its hand carved memorial totem poles. When to go: May to September.

4. ARUBA

With a geographic position just north of Venezuela and just south of the hurricane belt, Aruba boasts nearly perfect weather, making it an ideal year-round locale. Adding to that appeal for 2016? New and improved resorts and an event foodies will love. A total of $100 million was invested in new hotels and enhancements to existing properties. The all-inclusive Riu Palace Antillas opened late last year; the Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino updated the rooms in its adults-only Marina and family-friendly Ocean Suites areas; and both the Marriott Aruba Hotel and Holiday Inn Resort Aruba received face-lifts. The former Radisson Aruba, a historic Morris Lapidus-designed beachfront property, recently became the Hilton Aruba Caribbean Resort & Casino, and by year’s end, a trio of Divi Resorts will have completed their upgrades. On the food scene, Aruba is getting a taste of the farm-to-table move- ment. Its first-ever Eat Local Aruba Restaurant Week, during which some 55 eateries created special wallet-friendly locavore menus, debuted last fall and will return in late September. But the island celebrates great local food any time of year; it won the 2015 TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice award for the best fine dining in the Caribbean. When to go: June through November, when most of the region’s weather is unpredictable.

SCOTLAND’S NORTH COAST 500 IS A ROAD TRIP TO RIVAL ROUTE 66.

5. SCOTLAND

The launch of Scotland’s North Coast 500 loop has opened up the country’s Highlands and northernmost shores in a new and much more accessible way. Intrepid travelers can now explore its rural and rugged landscapes by car, bicycle or even on foot. An added boon: Recently added flights to Aberdeen on Icelandair make it easier than ever to get to nearby Inverness, the capital of the Highlands and the perfect place to start the trip. The scenic 500-mile route — which can be driven in its entirety in as little as three days — combines nature and adventure, food and drink, history and culture. You will pass towering mountain ranges, centuries-old ruins and monumental castles. And you can see what all the Hollywood buzz is about with a side trip to the Isle of Skye, off Scotland’s northwest coast. Its wild, weathered, windswept landscapes have recently been featured in Macbeth, starring Michael Fassbender and Marion Cotillard, and J.J. Abrams’s just-released Star Wars epic. When to go: High summer, when daylight stretches until 11 p.m.

6. AZORES, PORTUGAL

Last spring, Ryanair and EasyJet began offering low-cost flights to connect the Azores‘ capital city of Ponta Delgada, on the main island of Sao Miguel, to London and Lisbon, raising the profile of this nine-island chain dramatically. Americans will also find them surprisingly easy to reach, thanks to four-hour direct flights from Boston on SATA. Reasons to visit: A 450-mile network of hiking trails recently debuted on the island of Santa Maria, where the soon-to-open Charming Blue will offer 15 residential-style rooms. On Sao Miguel, the striking volcanic stone and concrete Arquipelago Contemporary Arts Centre just bowed, as did Design Hotels’ 55-room Furnas Boutique Hotel, featuring a spring-fed thermal spa. When to go: Mild climate year-round, but rainy season is November through March.

7. BARBADOS

This former British colony celebrates the 50th anniversary of its independence on November 30, bringing with it an ample amount of festivals. Expect the usual annual autumn events, such as the Barbados Food & Wine and Rum Festival and the National Independence Festival of Creative Arts, along with special one-offs, like the Barbados 50, a transatlantic rally that will see boats traveling from London to West Africa to the Caribbean between July and November. It closes out a big year of sailing events, which include the 80th anniversary of the Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series in mid-January,as well as the GP14 World Championships in late March. When to go: Year-round, but November is the height of the independence celebrations.

8. MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO, MYANMAR

Up until a few years ago, it was almost impossible to travel to this out-there set of 800 islands spread across 10,000 square miles in the Andaman Sea off Myanmar’s southern coast. Even as the political situation improved in the country, the only way to experience this pristine, practically empty archipelago was by wooden boat. Now, smartly appointed, state-of-the-art yachts are sailing here from ports in Phuket, Thailand, letting sophisticated travelers tour these jungled, mountainous sand- and coral-ringed atolls without sacrificing modern comforts and conveniences. Top Asia-travel expert Remote Lands has begun five-day cruises around many of the islands, giving guests access to exclusive dive sites teeming with turtles, stingrays, sharks and seahorses. Beyond diving, travelers can explore villages of the local Moken population, otherwise known as “sea gypsies,” a hunter- gatherer maritime tribe who have called these waters home for millennia. When to go: November to March, outside of monsoon season.

9. CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA

Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast, boasts colorful colonial architecture and fantastic food, but its vibrant arts scene is often overlooked. This January brings the 10th incarnation of the Classical Music Festival, followed by the Southern Hemisphere edition of the U.K.’s literary Hay Festival. The city’s thriving contemporary music scene can be experienced via a new tour, Ruta Champetua, from on-the-ground experts Cartagena Insider, which introduces travelers to the world of the local Afro-Caribbean-Spanish champetua sound. Cultural center Ciudad Movil features a slate of creative performances, plus a new courtyard restaurant, Fedora Libro Cafe. Come spring, the hot spot to stay will be the 42-room Tcherassi Hotel + Spa; with a rooftop pool and restaurant, the flagship is decorated by Cartagena native and top New York designer Richard Mishaan. And all this comes at a bargain, too: The U.S. dollar has been steadily climbing against the Colombian peso; at press time, $1 U.S. equals 3,100 COP. When to go: The festivals take place in January and the weather is dry through April — the humid wet season starts in May.

Cartagena boasts colorful colonial architecture, fantastic food and a vibrant arts scene.

10. SEA ISLAND & JEKYLL ISLAND, GEORGIA

Many changes are afoot on these barrier islands, long a favorite of Southerners. Sea Island will see the 1928 Mediterranean-style Cloister hotel expand this spring with the 63-room Garden Wing, while the nearby eight-room Lodge at Broadfield was entirely rebuilt last fall after a devastating fire. New on Jekyll Island: 200- room LEED-certified The Westin Jekyll Island and a 157-room Holiday Inn Resort, along with a Beach Village retail area. A remastered Campground Pavilion makes sleeping under the stars much more comfortable, and this fall finds the opening of Jekyll Island Suites, whose 41 two- and three-bedroom accommodations will cater to families. And February 4 to 6, Sea Island goes Edwardian one last time for its annual Downton Abbey event, coinciding with the show’s final season. When to go: Late spring and early fall.

11. AUSTRALIA

Now’s your chance to delve deeply into indigenous customs across the continent — beyond the Red Centre and Outback — through projects and companies owned by the aboriginal tribes. Barraddict is offering a new trip in the northern Kimberley region of Western Australia, where indigenous guides lead guests on helifishing tours and sea turtle-monitoring projects. In the south, Koomal Dreaming has new programs where guests can forage for bush food, then learn how to cook their finds with native chef Josh Whiteland. Near the Nitmiluk Gorge of the Northern Territory, the 100 percent aboriginal-owned outfit Pudakul has launched flat-bottom boat tours led by guides from the Jawoyn tribe. This tribe also owns the area’s Cicada Lodge, a 3-year-old pioneer in high-end, indigenous- owned hotels. When to go: Varies depending on which tour you choose, but generally May to September.

THE PARTY HAS NEVER STOPPED ON MYKONOS.

12. MYKONOS, GREECE

While the uncertainties of Greece’s economy and the ongoing migrant crisis might have dampened the desire of some travelers to plan an Aegean holiday, the party never stopped on Mykonos. In fact, this past season saw an unprecedented number of openings on the hotel, spa and restaurant fronts. The attention-grabbing arrival for 2016 looks to be a second hotel from Bill & Coo; this one, Bill & Coo Coast, will have 15 rooms on 21⁄2 coastal acres just outside of Mykonos town. It will join two recent standouts: the 25-key, minimalist Mykonos Blanc, on Ornos Beach, and Mykonos No. 5, in town, whose budget-friendly 11 residential-style rooms have kitchens and terraces. New spots to see and be seen include Scorpios, a beach club on the island’s south coast featuring performance spaces and an indoor-outdoor restaurant; Buddha Bar-Beach, a seaside lounge at the recently redone Santa Marina Hotel & Villas in Ornos; and Hakkasan group’s upmarket contemporary Chinese spot Ling Ling. Plus Athens’s beloved health-food joint Nice-n-Easy just introduced good-for-you fare to the beach. When to Go: Late May through June or September, to avoid the crowds.

13. PANAMA CITY, PANAMA

After an epic, yearslong feat of engineering, Panama‘s famed canal will reveal its new lane this spring. Tour company Ancon Expeditions will offer behind-the-scenes construction tours, some by helicopter, others by Zodiac boat. In town, the historic Casco Viejo district, which saw the arrival of the American Trade Hotel and Tantalo Hotel in 2013, continues to attract trendy travelers on a budget (a boutique hotel is planned in a pair of colonial-era buildings). On the luxury front, Ritz-Carlton, Panama, will open a 29-story tower with 220 rooms, four restaurants, two pools and a spa in the city’s heart by year’s end. And the national airline Copa just added direct flights from New Orleans and San Francisco. When to go: Spring, after the canal opens.

14. NEW PLYMOUTH, NEW ZEALAND

This port city on the west coast of the North Island offers an intriguing mix of culture, architecture and contemporary art, including the Len Lye Museum, named for and devoted to one of NZ’s most famous artists. But outside city limits, it’s all about adventure. There’s the reopened 11-mile Pouakai Crossing, which traverses mountains high above New Plymouth. Cyclists can sign up for Ventouro’s Forgotten Highway Cycling Tour, a 350-mile, six-day ride across some of North Island’s most rugged and remote terrain, led by two-time Olympian Tim Gudsell. An easier-option is Forgotten World Adventures’ new Rail Bike Tours, where riders gently pedal through the countryside on nearly 90 miles of unused train tracks, riding in converted rail carts. When to go: Spring or fall in the Southern Hemisphere.

No need to head to Key West to get that retro-chic Keys flavor: ENJOY YOUR PLACE IN THE SUN ON THIS LITTLE-KNOWN FLORIDA KEY.

15. ISLAMORADA

No need to head to Key West to get that retro-chic Keys flavor. On Islamorada, Amara Cay recently opened in a former (and now totally unrecognizable) Hampton Inn, bringing smart, affordable digs — and Oltremare Ristorante, a restaurant specializing in Italian cuisine with a Floridian twist — to the beach. Several other area hotels received recent revamps, including the hipster-friendly Postcard Inn. And beer lovers will find there’s more to this destination than daiquiris: The Florida Keys Brewing Company opened last March, brewing their suds on site and joining the 14-month-old Islamorada Beer Company. Historic Upper Keys Walking Tours now ends its new fact-filled Happy Hour History Tour at the Brewing Company with a draught on the house. (The company’s equally new Indian Key Historic State Park tour is also interesting, even without the alcohol.) And this Upper Key is having a moment in the spotlight: The Netflix series Bloodline, which is set (and shoots) here, starts its second season this year with new cast member John Leguizamo. When to go: January and February, with temps in the high 70s.

16. SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka is becoming an easier place to navigate: Enhanced infrastructure has increased connectivity between the capital of Colombo, the old town ofGalle, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Yale National Park in the south — plus the recently revived Queen of Jaffna train also links Colombo to the north. Travel outfitters are taking notice: Abercrombie & Kenthas two new trips planned to Sri Lanka in 2016, while Black Tomato will debut cycling journeys along the south coast, water safaris in the relatively untouched eastern national park of Gal Oya, and sunrise treks up tea country’s Adam’s Peak, the nation’s highest mountain. New hotels include Sri Lanka Collection’s Fort Bazaar, set in the 400-year-old Galle Fort. When to go: December to mid-April for the best weather.

The post 16 Best Places to Travel in 2016 appeared first on Islands.

Try to see London well after the hubbub of the 2012 Olympic Summer Games has faded away. That way you can see the most of the city without battling so many crowds.

A Friendly Experience WALK: 2 HOURS Heathrow’s not all bad if you amble down to Terminal 5. Eat fish cakes at Plane Food, a restaurant owned by Gordon Ramsay (of Kitchen Nightmares fame) with a floor-to-ceiling runway view. The queue at immigration might allow a jaunt to the Sofitel. Talking with travelers from who-knows-where at the Icelandic-style bar called Sphere is a micro-cultural experience.

See the Real London TAXI: 4 HOURS It’s a pretty easy — and worthwhile — cab ride out to Marylebone, one of London’s “villages” and a prominent locale in Sherlock Holmes stories. If there’s such a thing as old English ambience, this is it. The 18th-century architecture always makes me think I’m in a well-heeled country town. On a nice day, grab lunch to go at a nearby cafe and then eat under an old tree at the vast Regent’s Park. Souvenir tip: Buy the beautifully packaged soaps in Ortigia before cabbing it back to the airport.

The Walk of Fame TRAIN, WALK: 4 HOURS Take a 15-minute sprint on Heathrow Express into Paddington. Then two stops on the Tube into Notting Hill. Yes, that Notting Hill. Stroll the two-mile Portobello Market, graze on some cheese and pick up an antique decanter.

Airport or Here? TRAIN, TAXI: 4 HOURS An eight-hour layover is pretty common in London. It’s also an opportunity to see in one afternoon the half-dozen iconic sites (like Big Ben) that some people plan an entire vacation around.

Best Pic of the Trip TAXI: 6 HOURS Head to Windsor Castle, the world’s oldest and largest occupied castle and an official residence of Her Majesty the Queen. If it’s April through July, get here by 11 a.m. to see the changing of the guard.

A Dish to Talk About Later TAXI: 6 HOURS Given a fat wallet I’d book lunch at the Fat Duck just west of Windsor. Its innovative combinations (think snail porridge and jelly of quail) have earned it the U.K.’s Best Restaurant award for three straight years. Mind you, at $240 per person for the tasting menu, perhaps it’s just as well that you forgot to make a reservation.

England in Your Face TRAIN, TAXI: 8 HOURS Within an hour of the airport you can be in Westminster at the foot of Big Ben. This is iconic London, with Parliament on one side and the Thames River under your nose. I’d cross the Millennium Bridge and turn along the South Bank, passing the London Eye and Tate Modern before heading back across the bridge.

Back to the Layover Remedies Gallery »

The post Editor’s Picks: London Travel Guide With No Olympics appeared first on Islands.

The planning started nearly a year in advance, and didn’t have anything to do with Bill or his past. Not at first anyway. The plans were as general as walking parts of the country’s 870-mile coastal path and as specific as tipping pints in parlors with shepherds named Jones (the name of my great-grandfather who emigrated from Wales).

But when I went two houses down from mine to tell Bill that I’d be going to Wales, he looked me in the eyes for maybe the first time in 11 years. “Wales. That’s where I’m from, you know.” Yes,I did know.It’s one of the few things I knew about Bill.

“Will you be near Pembroke Dock?” he asked. And that’s when the plans changed. Bill never spoke like that, with any kind of desire or inflection. It was always how the yard guy was late or how the food stank in the hospital during treatment for a urinary tract infection. Once, shortly after his wife of 45 years, Celia, died in 2004 he told me with- out emotion how his only remaining family connection (a sister-in-law) had rebuffed his idea of visiting her in Wales. “I’ll never go back.” He sniffed, not out of mourning for a lost opportunity but as if the subject were nothing more than dust to him. And then he called his cat over.

So when Bill suddenly showed a glimmer of interest in his old home, I had to show some interest back. Perhaps I could tack a few extra days onto my itinerary and retrace some of his steps, 60 years after he moved from Wales. For him it might provide a lift. For me it might provide a little treasure hunt. If only Bill would open the door to his past and give me something to chase. Anything.

Bill finally does crack the door, three months before my trip. “Carew Castle,” he says somewhat reluctantly in his still-thick British accent. “I used to go with a friend, Moffat, when we were boys. We walked there, perhaps a mile from Pembroke Dock. It was just us, playing in a castle in the middle of nowhere. I doubt it’s still there. You could find out, I suppose.”

On the outskirts of Pembroke Dock — and about a mile from Carew Castle by Bill’s calculation — I rent a bike near the Ferry Inn. Like most pubs around here, the place seems to specialize in beer, potatoes and peas. “If the food isn’t pretty and it comes from the ground,” one patron tells me, “it’s Welsh. We aren’t fancy. We’re hardened.”

Wales is a lump on the western hip of England, and some people in the country would say they’ve been treated by the English with all the respect of a bloody cyst for 1,000 years. Their taxes go over the border to London. Their language was banned in schools as recently as the 1950s. Their voice is just a whisper in the U.K.’s governance. Until 30 years ago, coal mining strafed land and shortened lives in Wales while the owners of the mines built palaces 100 miles to the east. Yet most people in this part of Wales still revere the Queen and consider themselves British. Most.

“When you’re riding that bike in the hills,” says the man at the Ferry Inn, “if you see the dragon [the Welsh flag], it might belong to someone who still has more than a little resentment.”

Rabbits scatter in front of me and the bleating of lambs fills my ears. That is, until my lungs start to erupt. Bill misjudged the “perhaps a mile” distance to Carew Castle by five miles. Worse, he also neglected to tell me that the route would include a hill more befitting ropes and harnesses than bikes. At the top I’m in full wheeze under a sign reading “Anaddas i gerbyd fodur” (unsuitable for motor vehicles) when a man approaches. He’s built like a fire hydrant, which a few decades back would have cursed him to a life deep in the coal mines. Parry is his name, and he has emerged from a tiny stone cottage that happens to be flying the dragon. I try to greet him, but he goes first. The words he speaks sound impossibly Welsh. That or he’s trying to loosen raspberry seeds from the walls of his throat and back molars. Politely, I let him finish, figuring I’ll wipe my face off later.

“Carew Castle,” I say. “This way?”

“Oh no,” he says, switching to clean English. “You’ll wind up in the river. Take the lane over here. You’ll pass the Old Mill Pub. The castle is next to the Milton Brewery.”

That’s how directions are done in the old country. The routes are single-track lanes and the waypoints are pubs. This one takes me blindly through a three-mile tunnel of ferns and wild garlic, and squirts me out in a clearing where I see the outside wall of a castle next to a pond. I pedal closer and, after paying 41⁄2 pounds at a gift shop that wasn’t here in the 1930s, I step into the courtyard of Carew Castle. Nobody stops me from climbing the original stone-and-mortar stairs, or from pretending to shoot invaders through the castle’s arrow slits. I even jump up and try to touch the coat of arms that Bill had mentioned, carved high into a cracked wall.

“Carew Castle is still here,” I write in an e-mail to Bill. “You walked? It’s 12 miles here and back to Pembroke Dock.”

Six weeks before the trip Bill does something totally not him: He produces a picture, and a story. In the picture is a man of about 20 on a humongous beach. He’s wearing a suit and tie, and holding a swimsuit wrapped in a towel. “That’s me after a swim at Tenby. I’d go there or to Freshwater by locomotive. Sometimes I’d walk. They’re both a few miles from Pembroke Dock. I remember them being beautiful, but I suppose they’ve changed. If you go, you’ll have to dash into the water. It’s quite cold.”

Bill never saw a car in Wales, which might explain why his internal odometer is so badly calibrated. I decide to bag the bike at the Cleddau Bridge Hotel in Pembroke Dock and drive a rental car to Tenby. (Sure enough, I clock “a few miles” at 11 miles, or 22 miles round-trip.) “It wasn’t unusual for miners to walk 20 miles a day,” says David Blackmoor, a historian in Pembrokeshire. “We were poor. We ate what we picked or caught. And we walked.”

On a lookout at Tenby, across the road from a 700-year-old church that towers over sea-foam-colored apartments, I see as wide a field of sand as I have ever seen. Above the beach a blue flag denotes that Tenby has reached the apex of European ecological standards. On the beach, dozens of boats lie on their keels as if sunning in the sand, a good quarter-mile from the water. The 29-foot tide, one of the highest in the world, is out. So I have plenty of time to grow some nerve, and maybe a few layers of skin, on the long walk from the lookout to the surf. I simply want to get a picture to show Bill that Tenby is still beautiful, the sea is still here, and his neighbor is in it.

I don’t get far. By the time the icy water reaches knee height, every- thing below my ribs has tightened into a ball of pain. My calves cramp. My knees and hip seize. I walk out of the water as if on stilts, and stuff my feet deep in the golden sand to warm them. There’s a splashing sound far over my shoulder. It’s a woman, backstrocking in water the temperature of a slushie.

“Tenby is colorful and amazing,” I e-mail Bill. “Picked up a couple shells. Took my feet for a swim too.”

Bill’s back in the hospital a month before the trip. Another urinary tract infection. It’s so bad this time that he clenches his eyelids and grimaces on every other breath. “Remember where I’m going, Bill?” I ask, holding up a map of Wales and hoping to change his focus. “That … island … near Tenby,” he says between breaths. “They…made something. But I never … went.” And then, looking at the hospital wall, he asks, “Who’s in the kitchen?” He’s hallucinating. I fold the map and put it next to a plate of food that he hasn’t touched.

Graham Waring has both hands on the old ship’s wheel as he navigates the narrow-hulled Nemesis across wind-whipped water between Tenby and Caldey Island. He’s made this 30-minute crossing 10,000 times. When I tell him about my Welsh neighbor who never made it once, he glances sideways. “You tell him it’s a pretty island,” he says. “But it was prettier back in his day, before they built a road from the beach to the lighthouse. The last thing you do to a little island like this is dump a strip of bloody concrete onto it.” Caldey has been the isolated home of monks for 1,500 years. But ferries didn’t start bringing visitors over until 1952, the same year Bill left Wales to find work.

Yes, I could see an island from Tenby,” Bill told me once, after much prodding. “It was unreachable. Caldey? Is that the name?”

The monks will not come out to play these days. But Graham tells me where they used to rappel by rope to a monk-only beach. To get there I walk through brambles, scraping my legs on briars and being careful not to smash buttercups. At the edge of a cliff, I sit in a patch of cow parsley and listen to the sounds of rumbling waves and nesting gulls. Down on a spit of sand cornered between red rock bluffs, I can only imagine how the men of peace used to cut loose.

The beach is among a maze of dichotomies on Caldey. In a chapel about as old as the stones holding it together, I light a candle with matches from Jaspers Bun in the Oven Restaurant in England. At the little island shop, I buy chocolate and some monk-made perfume. And I notice a footnote at the bottom of every sign: Find us on Facebook! “Caldey Island is an interesting place, Bill,” I write. “Didn’t meet any monks. But I picked up some chocolate bars.”

Bill is sitting up in his hospital bed two days later. When I walk in the door, he unfolds his reading glasses. “Your trip,” he says, unprompted. “Perhaps we can look at that map.” He locks into the smallest print and points to a speck. “Manorbier Newton — there isn’t much to it.” His voice softens. “Mother and I went to a farm there when the bombing got bad during the war. I remember chasing rabbits and picking blackberries. It was at the top of a hill. Two ladies owned it. The Pryce sisters. I doubt you can find it.”

Bill appears to be right this time. According to the GPS, I’m in the general area of Manorbier Newton. In America we would call this a big hill. There’s nothing here but a view, and it’s a spectacular one of distant castles and hedged-in pastures that look like pieces to a puzzle that never ends. Next to a concrete post stamped with the words “Fern Hill” is a long gravel driveway. I turn into it, just for the heck of it. A farmhouse sits at the bottom of the slope, with toy cars for kids and dandelions for winemaking. I start walking to the house, when the back door opens. “May I help you?”

I’m frozen for a second because the crazy question I’ve been rehearsing for the past month suddenly seems really, really ridiculous and, wow, the young lady is sorta wrapped in a white robe. A handshake is out of the question. “Yeah, I’m … hi …” Words randomly spill out of my mouth. I start to ramble on about Bill and blackberries and World War II and, “… um, have you heard of the Pryce sisters?”

“No, I haven’t. I’m sorry.” The door closes. I mindlessly pluck some blackberry blossoms on the way back to the car.

The ice has been broken, so a quarter-mile up the narrow road, I decide to pull down another long drive. Fred Edwards is outside feeding some dogs. He’s fully dressed, and I’m more coherent when I ask him about the Pryce sisters. “Ah, Pryce, you say?” Fred says. “They’re not here any longer. That was a long time ago, you know? They used to own the farm just up that way. The one called Fern Hill.” Fern Hill? The place where I stumbled all over myself a few minutes ago? That’s the farm where Bill and his mother went during the war? I took pictures there, and flowers. “You won’t believe this, Bill, but I found Manorbier Newton,” I e-mail. “Found the farm too. Amazing scenery. Picked a few blackberry blossoms.”

It’s three days before I leave for Wales. Bill is home and he’s decided to swing the door wide open. “I enjoyed the family gatherings the most,” he says. “The Sunday lunch in our little house. But the war changed everything. Oil for the Allies came through Pembroke Dock, so it was a target. We’d hide in the cellar during air raids. One time [May 1941] someone was yelling, ‘The street is gone!’ The Germans had dropped a mine. One of my friends was killed. Our roof was blown off. That’s why we went into the country.” He looks at me, waiting for a question. “Do you remember the address of your house?” Without pause Bill says, “It was 55 Laws Street.”

The rain is steady. The sidewalk is empty. Pembroke Dock is quiet because it’s Sunday and the pubs haven’t opened yet. Laws Street is an easy find. It climbs up, up, up, against a row of terraced houses shoved together like panels on a fence. The house is easy too. It’s the only one with a white door, lace curtains and the number 55 screaming at me. There I stand, ready to knock. If nobody answers, I’m off to the hills. If somebody does answer …

“Yes?” A man appears in the doorway, eyeballing this wet stranger who could be up to just about anything. How do I explain in five seconds that my neighbor in Florida lived in this house 70 years ago, played tiddlywinks on the dining- room table, hid on the cellar stairs during World War II, got bombed out of the house, returned two years later to a cat that never left, moved for good in 1952, won’t admit to missing the place, and I’m not trying to sell anything?

The man waves his hand and stops me with the most classic oxymoron ever: “Get out! Come in!”

Inside, the smell of chicken curry fills the house. “I’m fixing Sunday lunch,” says Stuart Ward, 67. He tells me he’s lived in this home since 1972. I tell him Sunday lunch, according to Bill, is supposed to be wild rabbit, turnips and potatoes. “Oh, they called that ‘the poor man’s Sunday lunch,’” says Stuart. “Everyone in Wales ate it. Some people still do.”

He shows me the cellar, with the 5-foot-8-inch door clear- ance. “When I moved here, the coal dust was up to my knees.” He shows me the front den, which used to be the dining area. “It was very small, barely big enough for a table and a family. But I suppose there were a lot of memories made here.”

When I mention that Bill talks about a bomb blowing the roof off in 1941, Stuart’s eyes turn to full moons.“Look up here.” He points to crown moulding that’s badly offset because of a crooked ceiling. “And here.” The door into one room is also askew. “They refurbished the house, but some of the bomb damage couldn’t be fixed.”

And now Stuart wants to know about Bill. His family. His past. His hobbies. Things I don’t know about Bill. Stuart writes down his e-mail address, a souvenir for Bill. “Tell Bill to contact me,” he says. “And tell him he has a friend in Wales.”

I placed Stuart’s note inside my backpack with the shells from Tenby, the chocolate bars from Caldey, the flowers from Manorbier Newton and a flag with the dragon. On my camera are a thousand pictures from home. Hey Bill, it’s still here.

Want more? See our Best of Wales: Why You Should Visit.

The post Best of Wales: 55 Laws Street appeared first on Islands.

St. Govan’s Head

The Lanes

Swansea Market

The Disappearing Beach at Tenby

Hedges

Great Beer

Strange Landscape Architecture

Touchable History

Welsh People

Europe’s Best Beaches

Pubs

Sea Cliffs

Chapels Made of Stones

World’s Longest Walk

Views Like This

The post Best of Wales: 15 Reasons to Visit appeared first on Islands.

My face screws up as my teeth hit the firstgrape. I know grapes to be plump and sweet. But these are undersized, with more pips than flesh, and they’re acidic enough to come with a “hazardous materials” warning. I quietly spit the fruit into the dirt and question whether these long rows of grapes, grown in this region between London and the English Channel, are worth picking. They can’t be the taste of England’s most royal sparkling wine. Can they?

Wait. Is there even such a thing as English sparkling wine? To my unenlightened mind, the marriage of “English” and “wine” sounds about as appealing as “prairie” and “oysters.” By the way, I’m English. I know we’re experts at lagers and ambers. But wine?

There is, in fact, a quiet revolution taking place here in southeast England. It’s so discrete that I knew nothing about it, and I live all of maybe 50 miles from here. So I’ve made the short trip to the Ridgeview Wine Estate, a small-scale, family-run producer in the Sussex countryside.

Since first hitting the market in 2000, Ridgeview’s wines have gone head-to-head against the best French champagnes to win a slew of awards. They have even been served at Buckingham Palace receptions hosted by Her Majesty the Queen.

I’d called ahead to plan a tasting, but Mardi Roberts, daughter-in-law of the vineyard’s founders, had other ideas.

“Come tomorrow,” she said. “We’ll be harvesting the chardonnay grapes. We can use an extra pair of hands.”

It isn’t exactly the taste-testing experience I had in mind, but here I am, between rows of vines, snipping off bunches of small, translucent green grapes and placing them carefully into a basket.

“The chalky soil here is almost identical to that found in Champagne, France,” Mardi says while I work. “Did you know you’re less than 100 miles from the champagne vineyards of Épernay?”

I continue picking, partly so I don’t have to admit my ignorance of Mardi’s factoids about my homeland. She mentions the similarity in climate from Sussex to the champagne region, with one important difference. English summers are a few degrees cooler, which allows for a longer growing season. “The longer the fruit stays ripening on the vine, the more intense its flavors will be, the more crispness in the bubbly,” Mardi says.

I’ve tasted the fruit. The terms “intense” and “crispness” are nice words to describe an acid bath.

But three years ago a Ridgeview Grosvenor blanc de blancs won Best Sparkling Wine in the Decanter World Wine Awards, the first time the award went to a wine from outside Champagne, even if the name sounds far more French than English.

As we empty our umpteenth basket of grapes onto a conveyor, Mardi invites me inside to watch the fruit being pressed by shiny, state-of-the-art machinery. I’m getting the 30-minute tutorial. In reality, it takes three years to produce each bottle. Mardi suggests my toil in the fields deserves a visit to the sampling room. I’m quick to assent.

Mardi pops the cork on a bottle of 2008-vintage Grosvenor. The bubbles crown my glass with a frothy mousse. I savor the delicate aroma before sipping some of the world’s best sparkling wine.

Surprise: It tastes nothing like bitter grapes. The light palate and distinctive citrus notes linger on my tongue. I’m amazed that those foul fruits can be transformed into such fabulous fizz. I also wonder who might wind up drinking the wine made from the grapes I’ve picked today. It won’t be ready for three years. Perhaps it will be poured for the Queen herself. With that in mind, I ask for another glass.

The post England’s Finest Wine Stems From an Unlikely Source appeared first on Islands.