Travel to Mexico for a variety of cheap honeymoon destinations, ranging from a hotel with 11 restaurants and bars to one with a 13,000-square-foot spa and a whale-watching bar. Barceló Bávaro Beach in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic, has a casino and an 18-hole golf course you can spend your newly married life at. Try Meliá Caribe Tropical in the D.R. where they offer Japanese and Thai massages in one of the most affordable honeymoon destinations.

No matter how you want to celebrate one of the happiest moments in your life, read on for our list of best honeymoons destinations on a budget.

Azul Fives Hotel by Karisma – Riviera Maya, Mexico

Whether you’re keeping it a twosome or inviting the whole crew, all-inclusive Azul Fives Hotel by Karisma in Playa del Carmen has more room types than a mariachi band has members, ranging from spacious, ocean-view suites to a three-bedroom penthouse. Plus, chances are you won’t go hungry with the property’s 11 restaurants and bars, ranging from swim-up to buttoned-up, with one of the best all-inclusive honeymoon packages.

Barceló Bávaro Palace – Dominican Republic

Punta Cana’s scores of all-inclusives mean resort choices are as varied as buffet selections. Barceló Bávaro Palace touts restaurants featuring European, Asian and local Dominican specialties at one of the best cheap honeymoon ideas. The U-Spa’s Vichy shower, with seven pressure shower heads suspended from a metal bar, might look like a medieval torture device, but its cleansing aqua massage is unforgettable — in a good way.

Breezes Bahamas Resort and Spa – Cable Beach, Bahamas

Cable Beach, a low-rise stretch of restaurants, casinos, golf courses, straw markets and hotels, is only a 10-minute jaunt from the airport in Nassau, New Providence Island. Breezes Bahamas Resort and Spa, one of Cable Beach’s top all-inclusives, welcomes couples and families with children 14 and older.

Their “Eternal Love” package includes five nights in a deluxe, ocean-view room, all meals and drinks, a bottle of champagne and tropical fruit tray, his and hers t-shirts, land and water sports (including instruction and equipment) and hotel taxes and gratuities at one of the best honeymoon getaways.

Grand Oasis Tulum – Riviera Maya, Mexico

This 114-room respite near the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula is in the heart of the Mayan Riviera, approximately one hour from Cancun International Airport. During the day, snorkel in the coral reef, or venture to the Tulum archeological site 10 miles away. At night, settle into one of the 13 restaurants and 15 bars.

Here’s what you get in the all-inclusive package: five nights in a grand, oceanfront guestroom, all meals, drinks and gratuities covered, unlimited access to the tennis court and the fitness center and use of water-sports equipment, including kayaks, surfboards and snorkel gear.

Sandals Ochi – Ocho Rios, Jamaica

Set on Jamaica’s North Coast, with the lush St. Ann Mountains over its shoulder, Sandals Ochi Beach Resort offers 519 guest rooms and a signature Red Lane Spa, with intimate spaces throughout, including oversized, plush loungers and fire pits overlooking the Caribbean sea.

Included in the honeymoon package for stays of three nights or more are a complimentary bottle of chilled sparkling wine, special turndown service that includes petals on your bed, delivery of fresh flowers along with a delicious breakfast in bed, all meals and drinks, land sports (including golf and tennis), water activities (including paddle boarding, snorkeling and scuba diving for certified divers), airport transfers and all resort taxes and fees.

Barceló Bávaro Beach – Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

A casino, a rum-and-cigar lounge, an 18-hole golf course, theater, a spa and one of the best beaches in the Caribbean: Not a bad resume for Barceló Bávaro Beach, the 589-guestroom, adults-only all-inclusive in Punta Cana.

Off property, head into town for a taste of “sancocho,” window-shopping at Plaza Dominicana, or visit Cascada el Limon, the eye-popping, 188-foot waterfall in the Samaná Rainforest.

Paradisus Cancún – Cancún, Mexico

A series of white ziggurats along Mexico’s Caribbean coast, with naturally lit interiors featuring gardens and lagoons, Paradisus Cancún claims to be one of the top resorts in the area with one of the best cheap honeymoon packages.

Here’s what you get in the all-inclusive package: five nights in a deluxe junior lagoon-view suite, all meals and drinks, scuba diving and non-motorized water sports and land activities, including access to the nine-hole, par-three golf course.

Hilton Rose Hall Resort & Spa – Montego Bay, Jamaica

Flaunting turquoise Caribbean waters and misty, blue mountains, the landscape of Montego Bay is custom-made for love. With year-round, bikini-friendly temperatures and a diverse lineup of activities — from watersports and award-winning golf to fine dining and a spa — Hilton Rose Hall Resort & Spa offers honeymooners a laid-back respite from the real world.

Here’s what comes with the all-inclusive package: accommodations in resort-view guestroom, all meals and non-premium brand liquor, draft beer and wine, all hotel taxes and service charges and activities like non-motorized water sports, fitness-center access, rum-mixology classes and kayaking.

Meliá Caribe Beach Resort – Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

Don’t be fooled by the modest price tag at Melia Caribe Beach Resort in Punta Cana. You’ll be privy to all the special treatment honeymooners crave, including mixology workshops, bachata dance lessons, eight outdoor pools (and two indoors) and seven massage options, including Japanese shiatsu and Thai samunprai. The property is only 14 miles from Punta Cana’s airport, and every room is a suite, so you’ll have plenty of space to relax.

Sandos Finisterra Los Cabos Resort – Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

In May 2013, the legendary Hotel Finisterra, built in 1972, was reborn as Sandos Finisterra Los Cabos. It’s on the southern tip of Baja, one of the last patches of land to separate the Pacific Ocean from the Sea of Cortez. The property features 288 guestrooms, swimming pools, tennis courts, a 13,000-square-foot spa and a whale-watching bar.

Paradisus Punta Cana – Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

While the 694-room property offers all the trappings of an expansive resort (pools, spa, casino, golf course, etc.), Paradisus Punta Cana is equally impressive in its locale. It’s tucked into a natural preserve peppered with palm trees, exotic vegetation, lily ponds and mangrove lagoons, which are home to exotic birds, flamingos and turtles.

Here’s what comes in the all-inclusive package: five nights in a deluxe junior suite, all meals and drinks, scuba diving and non-motorized water sports, land sports (including tennis and beach volleyball), classes including dance, sushi-making and wine-tasting and unlimited green fees at the Cocotal Golf & Country Club.

Sandos Caracol Eco Resort & Spa – Riviera Maya, Mexico

Sure, we like the fact that it’s an eco-resort: a sustainable property featuring solar-powered guestrooms, a windmill and onsite composting. But it’s the 957-room resort’s surroundings — jungle, lagoons, a zoo, ancient Mayan temples within walking distance — that truly underscore the property’s preserved, natural vibe.

The honeymoon package includes four-night accommodations, all meals and drinks, access to the aqua park and covers taxes, service charges and gratuities.

Sunscape Sabor Cozumel – Cozumel, Mexico

Snorkel in the world’s second-largest coral reef system. Then, head to the beachfront Stingray Bar for a frozen drink. That’s just one version of an afternoon at Sunscape Sabor, the 388-guestroom resort on the island of Cozumel, 10 miles off the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. Add in the pools, swim-up bars, restaurants, spa, shopping area and theater, and an afternoon can take on many shapes.

The “Sweet Escape Honeymoon” package includes five-night accommodations, fresh flowers, sparkling wine and a fruit plate upon arrival, all meals and drinks covered, one breakfast in bed with mimosas, a couples massage, choice of facial or body scrub for two and one private beachfront dinner.

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Endless sun, tacos at every meal, jungles to explore, and mountains framing epic sunset views are just the beginning of Mexico’s endless appeal—and we can never get enough. Looking for a little more privacy and exclusivity? Head off the beaten path a bit on your next trip and book an Airbnb rental.

Most on our list come with their own private pools and some even include private chefs, but all of them guarantee an amazing time. From Cancun to Puerto Vallarta, here are our picks on where to relax and recharge on your next Mexico escape.

Surfer Style—Sayulita

Surf chic located steps from the water, Casa Playa—a three-bedroom bungalow in Sayulita on Mexico’s Pacific Coast—is barefoot luxury at its finest. Accordion glass doors open to connect the bedrooms and living areas to the outdoors, ushering in the sounds and smell of the sea.

We especially love that this home offers room service from of the nearby Don Pedros Restaurant, which boasts a varied menu that includes a mix of flavor, including octopus carpaccio, spicy tuna sashimi tostadas, and Mexican pizza with chorizo, chiles, and black beans.

Castle on the Beach—Isla Mujeres

We love Casa Alkimia, a four-bedroom castle on Isla Mujeres, which is a 15-minute ferry ride from Cancun. The towering home has a Moroccan vibe, with bright white walls and lots of curves; inside, the style leans toward nature and neutrals, with basket lamps and raw wood railings. We’re especially taken with the rooftop lounge where you can take in 360-degree views while soaking in the private plunge pool.

Art Lover’s Dream—Puerto Vallarta

Mexican artist Sergio Bustamente created the paintings and sculptures in this three-bedroom sprawling retreat in Puerto Vallarta on the west coast. Book this home for the delights and surprises, including the palapa-covered outdoor living area, the wall of tiny sculptures catching dreams above one of the beds, and the balcony opening to a jungle of palm trees leading to the water.

Rooftop Pad—Tulum

It’s almost a shame that the interior of this Tulum gem is so lovely—including the raw-edge dining room table for eight in the open-floor plan modern main level—because you’ll likely spend most of your time on the rooftop hangout space. Surrounded by palm trees and rainforest, this space has a private, hidden gem feel.

Up on the roof level, there’s plenty of room to spread out on the day bed, outdoor dining table, and the pool. What’s more, the host works with a concierge team that includes a chef and driver for a truly five-star, pampered experience. Also of note: We like that this three-bedroom home is in a gated community.

Treehouse Charmer—Puerto Vallarta

Open-air living meets modern vibes in this Puerto Vallarta four-bedroom hideaway. While there aren’t ocean views, this home does boast a sweeping deck set higher up, making the whole place feel like a treehouse. Plus, that deck sports a pool and a collection of sun loungers with partial shade thanks to the gumbo limbo tree anchoring the space.

Inside, find pops of character and color, from the bright, bold paintings to the collection of carved wooden masks.

Big Group Luxury—Isla Mujeres

The six-bedroom Casa Isla Bajo villa on Isla Mujeres caters to groups—literally. The in-house chef reaches out weeks ahead of your stay to plan menus based on your preferences, whether those be for light fare like just-caught fish or Mexican comfort foods like enchiladas. With meals taken care of, guests have more time to enjoy the pool, set steps from the water; take a plunge with a margarita while enjoying sea views.

Open Air Relaxation—Zihuatanejo

We love how seamlessly the hacienda-style Villa Noche transitions to the outdoor living space—and right onto the beach. Part of the Las Palmas Luxury Villas boutique hotel, this villa has access to extra amenities, including several pools, a restaurant and a spread of lounge chairs and day beds on the sand.

Jungle Mansion—Cozumel

This 5-bedroom private villa gets rave reviews for its lush outdoor patio—with pool and Jacuzzi—where curling vines, palms and planters pack the space with tropical greenery. Inside, the vibe is boho-eclectic, mixing Frida Kahlo murals with street signs, candelabras, chandeliers, oversize paintings and more for a collected, maximalist feel.

Modern and Simple—Todos Santos

A departure from most beach homes, this modern, concrete two-bedroom space boasts a clean, minimalist design, lots of light, and thoughtful touches. It’s set in the town of Todos Santos on the Baja Peninsula, located about an hour north of Cabo San Lucas with a beach popular as much for surfing as it is sea turtle nests.

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Upon arriving at Fiesta Americana in Cozumel, guests ascend a modest staircase to an outdoor lobby and are greeted by a bright-smiling staff eager to make each stay as warm and welcoming as the tropical climate itself. Faux-floating chairs hang by rope fastened to the ceiling that are strung in a manner reminiscent of those on boats (fitting, considering the island’s—and the resort’s, for that matter—inherent connection with the sea), creating an exotic aesthetic.

Starboard side, you’ll notice an ocean-blue bar stocked with local tequila and mezcal, among other spirits. There’s also a seemingly ocean-sized pool with a swim-up bar, a kids’ club and a relatively small yet spacious field of grass where either soccer or volleyball can be played.

Pack all that together with seven restaurants (including Mexican, Italian and pan-Asian) within walking distance of each other, a coffee bar that also serves chocolates, pastries and ice cream, a secluded spa, a gym and a fully staffed beach basically at your doorstep, and it’s easy to see Fiesta Americana doesn’t shy away from immediately presenting the amenities you’d expect of an all-inclusive.

There’s another part of this resort that isn’t as readily apparent until you actually stay there: its character. Fiesta Americana’s character is presented in its variety of multi-cultural cuisines, shown off in its beachside beds, demonstrated in its cultural shows and, most significantly, exuded by its staff. Over the course of my four-night stay, I became acquainted with many of the staff who ultimately felt more like hosts at an extended-family gathering than hotel employees.

Whether it was Henry at the bar pouring a refreshing glass of Dos Equis one day and mixing my first-ever drink with mezcal another or Naomi in Spa Na’Ha’ relieving stress from my excruciatingly tense shoulders burdened with this ever-so difficult task of reviewing luxury resorts, there was always someone there smiling and eager to engage with me and my just-passable Spanish.

My experience at Fiesta Americana can be epitomized in one of my first meals of my stay. At La Cevicheria, I sat at a table bordered by clear-blue waters that mirrored a vibrant, nearly cloudless sky, creating this tranquil atmosphere I seldom experience in my downtown apartment back home. Nursing an early-afternoon beer, my eyes naturally settled on the horizon—“Yes, now I can see why people come here to vacation,” I thought to myself.

Then I was pleasantly interrupted by homemade chips with true-Mexican guacamole and pico de gallo that I, as someone who doesn’t pay extra for “guac” at Chipotle, returned to with each dipped chip. They were the perfect teasers to two delectable fish tacos that made my first authentic Mexican meal “inolvidable.”

It soon felt like it was time for a nap, and, fortunately, La Cevicheria neighbors rows of beach chairs, hammocks and shaded waterfront beds available to any guest on a first-come-first-serve basis. Traffic passing through Fiesta Americana is sparse in its truest meaning, so the loudest noise you’ll hear is that of the waves’ regular washing of the rocks below.

But, if you’ve waited an hour after your meal and are now looking for activity, Fiesta Americana offers snorkeling and paddle-boarding services. There is also a non-affiliated Dive House on Fiesta Americana’s beach, offering guests a more immersive outing with PADI five-star experience.

At night is when the volume increases several decibels. During the first two nights of my stay, we were treated to what were dubbed “the Mayan Show” and “the Mexican Show.” Each honored the respective culture with authentic performances, presenting a more ritual-based presentation for the Mayan Show and a more dance-oriented showcase for the Mexican Show.

In all, my entire stay really felt like the ideal, paradisiacal scenario: an endless supply of a healthy mix of familiar and local foods and alcohol, beach access with leisurely water sports in awe-inspiring waters, tastes of a new culture and an attentive staff that was happy only when its guests were. The only negative part of my stay was that I was there without my family and friends.

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Rich in gastronomy, outdoor adventure and Mayan culture, even a day or two on Cozumel, an island off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, is an unforgettable experience. The island is easy to navigate by car or bicycle, with plenty of shopping and dining options downtown. But explore beyond the well-known areas and the experience deepens, as the island is largely undeveloped, with swaths of beaches that are home to some of Mexico’s best scuba diving and snorkeling. Here are 10 things to do in Cozumel, whether you’re visiting for a day or a week.

Shop for Arts and Crafts

Cozumel’s downtown is filled with craft markets and art galleries. Unique souvenirs from the region include carved wood, embroidered table linens, hammered metalwork and silver jewelry. Don’t be fooled by the commercial logo and large space at Los Cinco Soles — plenty of handmade treasures, including talavera (colorful Mexican pottery) can be found here. Other notable stops include Galeria Azul (Greg Dietrich’s working glass-art studio) and Bien Raices (a curated collection of handmade art that includes paper lanterns).

Tour a Lighthouse

Travel to the southernmost point of Cozumel and you’re greeted with the stunningly beautiful Faro Celarain, a lighthouse within the 2,700-acre Faro Celarain Ecological Reserve. Work out your legs by climbing to the top: your reward is the 360-degree view.

Experience a Temazcal

Considered a spiritual tradition to Mayans, this Mexican version of a sweat lodge takes place inside a stone, adobe-style structure, heated by fire. A shaman chants and coaches newbies through the experience, guiding the group to relax and release negative energy. Located in the jungle, Temazcal Cozumel offers a secluded setting for the adventure: after the experience, jump in a cenote to cool off.

Take an Art Class

Boutique hotels with a luxury bent are still relatively new to Cozumel, but Hotel B Cozumel fits the bill. Splashy folkloric art and sculptures from Mexican artists line the walls of this 45-room hotel on the beach. The property offers a weekly workshop to teach painting and how to make alebrije, brightly colored folk-art wood carvings.

Snorkel Palancar Reef

Cozumel is known for its snorkeling, particularly at Palancar Reef, part of the Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park. A four-hour tour with Cozumel Tours includes a ride to the reef in a glass-bottom boat and a guided excursion with a PADI certified snorkeling guide, plus all the equipment you’ll need.

Visit Mayan Ruins

History buffs won’t want to miss the island’s most important archeological site: San Gervasio. Because of its deep connection to Ix Chel, the goddess of fertility, Mayan women have long journeyed here. While the ruins are smaller than Chichen Itza and Coba (both are on the mainland), San Gervasio’s compact size means you have more time to spend at the beach.

Hang at a Beach Club

Short on time? Mr. Sanchos Beach Club appeases one’s limited hours on the island because you get beach and pool time, plus you can book water sports excursions (scuba diving, snorkeling and wave runners) or a massage in a private cabana. Don’t leave without visiting the club’s Aquatic Park, a collection of trampolines out in the water.

Try Authentic Mexican Food

Stray from Señor Frogs in search of authentic Mayan cuisine and you won’t regret it. Located downtown across from Parque Benito Juarez, Casa Denis holds the title of Cozumel’s oldest restaurant, in business for nearly a century. Its Yucatan specialties include empanadas, carne-asada tacos and enchiladas with mole sauce, served in a casual environment with outdoor seating.

Learn How to Make Chocolate

The Mayan Cacao Company features an interactive museum-type experience that shows the important role that cocoa played in the lives of ancient Mayans. Visit a traditional Mayan hut for tastings, watch a cooking demo to see how they prepared the delicacy, peruse the exhibit about artisan chocolate making, and score chocolate bars and lotions in the gift shop.

Ride a Bicycle

The island’s winding, paved roads are a dream for cyclists, especially when paired with sea views. Give your legs a rest by hopping onto an electric bike with Pedego. The company’s three-hour East Coast Scenic Road Cruise tour explores the island’s eastern coast.

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When Jacques Cousteau first visited Cozumel in 1962, it didn’t take long to declare it one of the world’s most spectacular destinations for scuba diving and snorkeling. The Island is part of the world’s second largest barrier reef, and is considered the “Diving Capital of Latin America.” With 80 feet of visibility year-round and transparent, turquoise waters, divers will find a variety of underwater landscapes from reefs to walls to thrilling drift dives.

Located east of Quintana Roo off the coast of Mexico in the Caribbean Sea, Cozumel is one of the country’s safest and relaxing cities. It is also Mexico’s most visited island, drawing more than 4.5 million visitors per year.

Recognized as part of the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves, Cozumel is surrounded by more than 40 dive sites teaming with tropical fish and a kaleidoscope of colorful corals. Divers of all skill levels can explore the limestone caves, inspiring underwater cliffs, intriguing caverns, dramatic depths and idyllic shallows reefs. With more than 30 reefs ranging in depth from 15 to 90 feet, divers will encounter a variety of marine life, including moray eels, sea turtles, nurse sharks, giant anemone, great groupers, parrotfish, the endemic “Splendid Toad Fish” and so much more.

Beginners should head to Chankanaab Reef or Palancar Reef for its shallow coral swim-throughs, while Barracuda Reef is a perfect deep dive for advanced divers.

The Underwater Golden Diver Museum is another can’t miss dive site in the warm waters of Cozumel. The underwater museum was created in 2013 when Jean-Michel Cousteau unveiled the first bronzed sculpture – a statue of his father, Jacques Cousteau – within the growing collection. Since then, three more pieces have joined underwater site. The newest sculpture was added in 2016 to become a coral habitat and virtual aquarium called, “Zoe.” To watch a livestream of Zoe, visit zoecoral.com.

Rated among top dive destinations for its exceptional wall diving, Cozumel is home to famed sites like Colombia Wall, Santa Rosa Wall, Maracaibo Wall and Paradise (Paraiso) Reef, among others. Cozumel’s constant South to North water current makes it convenient for divers to jump off the boat, explore the underwater panorama adrift with the current and ascend to find the boat waiting at the surface. Because of this, Cozumel is also known as the drift-diving capital of the world.

Not only is there excitement underwater, but the island also offers topside adventure for nature lovers. Learn about a variety of exotic migratory birds and giant sea turtles who lay their eggs from May to September on Cozumel’s beaches. With a convention center and 60 hotel properties, many offering on-site dive operators, Cozumel is ranked as one of the top dive destinations based on value, visibility and advanced diving.

Whether you’re looking for excitement below or above the sea, Cozumel is a must-visit destination for any certified diver. To book your next adventure to Cozumel, visit cozumel.travel

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Day One

Make a beeline for Chankanaab National Park where you can snorkel next to limestone cenotes. Get there early to stake out some shade under a palapa, then explore the Maya ruins and visit the botanical gardens. Post immediately for instant #vacationenvy. Enjoy dinner at Casa Mission, an impressive colonial-style Mexican and seafood restaurant featuring live music every night of the week.

Day Two

Visit San Gervasio, an archaeological site paying tribute to lxchel, goddess of fertility and love. Lunch on lobster crepes at Pepe’s. Then, stroll Cozumel’s city center with stops at El Mercado, the island’s traditional market, and the town square, to sit under the shade of flamboyan tree. Big appetites will love Rolandi’s Cozumel, a cozy Italian restaurant that locals have frequented for the past 30 years.

Day Three

Dive or snorkel the Mesoamerican Reef, the second-largest reef in the world. Then take your pick of beaches on the eastern shore, like Punta Morena, Punta Chiqueros, Playa Bonita and Playa Chen Rio. These beaches are typically less crowded than those on the west side. Lunch at Pancho’s Backyard for fresh guacamole, famous black-bean soup, fish tacos, fajitas and the perfect margarita.

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The most popular cruise ship destination in the Caribbean just got a huge new expansion. Carnival Cruises added a third cruise ship berth to the Cozumel pier at Puerto Maya.

In honor of the occasion, three of the company’s ships – Carnival Breeze, Carnival Freedom and Carnival Triumph – arrived today and became the first trio of ships to use the new three-berth pier.

“Cozumel is the Caribbean’s most visited cruise ship destination and consistently receives high ratings from our guests,” said Giora Israel, senior vice president of global port and destination development for Carnival Corporation. “So the destination is in demand by our guests, and we are excited about officially opening the third berth to our pier, since it gives our brands greater flexibility for visiting Cozumel and more of our guests the opportunity to enjoy the island.”

So what impact will this have? With 3.3 million cruise guests annually, Cozumel is already the busiest cruise destination in the Caribbean. The expanded pier will allow more ships and travelers to call on Cozumel, providing a sizable boost to the local economy.

See our picks for the top Caribbean cruises.

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Cozumel’s Best Family Resort | Best Beachfront Hotels for $200 or Less

4 Hours

8 Hours

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Best All-Inclusives in the Caribbean | Best Beachfront Hotels for $200 a Night or Less | Best Family All-Inclusive Resort in Jamaica

No. 20 – Chankanaab Park

No. 19 – Dolphin Discovery

No. 18 – Stingray Beach

No. 17 – Presidente Intercontinental Resort and Spa

No. 16 – Parasailing

No. 15 – Swimming pools at Presidente Intercontinental

No. 14 – Day Trip to Mainland

No. 13 – Sunsets

No. 12 – Snorkeling at Paraiso Reef

No. 11 – Atlantis Submarine expedition

No. 10 – Island Drive

No. 9 – Scenic Coastlines and Beaches

No. 8 – Island Exploring

No. 7 – Costa Brava Restaurant

No. 6 – Downtown San Miguel (The Plaza)

No. 5 – Tide Pools

No. 4 – Faro Celerain Eco Park

No. 3 – The Beaches

No. 2 – Nature

No. 1 – Snorkeling

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Here, all rental cars are two-wheel-drive. Shop owners disengage the four-wheel-drive switches on Jeeps, and then tear the switches out. “People kept going off road on the northeast corner of the island and getting stuck,” says the expat who owns the rental shop where I’m sign- ing papers. I listen sympathetically. Then three friends and I load up our water and snacks, hop in the Jeep and drive northeast.

I’m not a rule breaker, but we’ve gotten our fill of downtown Cozumel and need something out of the ordinary, even if it’s off the map. We cruise along in our emasculated Jeep, through the last settlement of huts, chickens and a kiosk where Cokes are sold, before the pavement ends. The wheels next hit nothing more than a sandy path bisecting desert flora. Oh, I think there might have been a sign that said “Do Not Enter.” We crest a small hill and look over the rugged, isolated dunes. It’s beautiful and, need I say, all to ourselves. So we keep going. After a mile or so, we stop to drink some of our water (it tastes amazing out here) before turning back. This is when the Jeep’s wheels get buried up to their hubcaps. We silently survey the situation, hands on hips, before starting the muggy, hour-long walk to the main road. There, we flag down a group of guys with a shovel and a four-wheel-drive truck. It is not a rental.

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