Sri Lanka – Islands https://www.islands.com The world's most beautiful island travel to the Caribbean, Hawaii, Tahiti and Mexico with expert reviews of resorts, snorkeling and the best islands to live on. Fri, 23 Jun 2023 13:00:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.2 https://www.islands.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/favicon-isl-1.png Sri Lanka – Islands https://www.islands.com 32 32 Aggressor Safari Lodge Set to Resume Adventures on October 1 https://www.islands.com/story/resorts/aggressor-safari-lodge-resumes-adventures/ Mon, 09 Aug 2021 21:28:36 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=41181 Nature lovers will find no better way to experience Sri Lanka.

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Sri Lanka Safari Lodge.
Luxury comes in all shapes and sizes. At the Sri Lanka Safari Lodge, it just so happens to include the best of this country’s natural beauty. Aggressor Adventures

If location is truly everything, the Sri Lanka Safari Lodge is, as the kids say, all that and then some. After all, few destinations on Earth offer as much natural beauty as this South Asian nation, and there’s arguably no better host than Aggressor Adventures. Put them together and you have a 5-star property that spoils thrill seekers with luxury and access to two amazing national parks and all the majestic wildlife that calls this country home.

Located on the Kala Oya River, the Lodge boasts eight private, tented chalets, making this place as intimate as it is enthralling. It’s no surprise that Aggressor CEO Wayne Brown and his team are so thrilled to reopen the doors on October 1, and guests will be equally elated with everything from the special rates to the Aliya Bush Restaurant’s locally sourced dishes. Oh, and the adventures awaiting beyond the property, of course.

Elephants by the river at Sri Lanka's Minneriya National Park
Sri Lanka’s Minneriya National Park is home to the largest concentration of Asian elephants in the world. Aggressor Adventures

“With the largest concentration of leopards and sloth bears in Sri Lanka, and up to 5,000 elephants, an Aggressor safari offers close-up experiences not found anywhere else in the world,” Brown explains. “With our industry-leading health and safety protocols, guests will have peace of mind along with a truly unforgettable adventure.”

Specifically, Aggressor has implemented the “Clean, Refresh, Sanitize” program to keep both guests and staff members safe and healthy. The company’s common-sense approach includes increased cleaning and sanitization in public areas and twice-daily room servicing, among other elements. But with its spacious layout and focus on privacy, the Lodge is already a perfect spot for travelers who have always practiced physical distancing.

As for the deals, guests traveling between October 3 and December 26 this year can enjoy a 5-days and 4-nights back-to-back add-on adventure when booked with the Maldives Aggressor II or Red Sea Aggressor II. Or, for those who simply want to admire the surroundings, there’s a 7-days, 6-night package for exploring Sri Lanka’s glory, including Wilpattu and Minneriya National Parks.

Say hi to the purple-faced langurs for us.

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19 Best Places to Travel in 2019 https://www.islands.com/19-best-places-to-travel-in-2019/ Wed, 14 Nov 2018 06:43:12 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=39100 Exciting hotel debuts, game-changing cruise ships, and new nonstop flights have helped put these 19 destinations on our travel list for 2019. Start planning now.

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19 Best Places to Travel in 2019 Shutterstock

Trying to decide where to go in 2019? Every year, we compile our list of the best places to travel in the coming year, with a focus on islands and beach destinations. These tropical locales are buzzworthy for 2019, with new hotel openings, nonstop flights, exciting cruise calls and noteworthy celebrations. From the Adamans to the Whitsundays, here are our best places to travel in 2019.

Best places to travel in 2019: Antigua & Barbuda

Antigua & Barbuda

Valley Church Beach on Antigua Shutterstock

Thanks to Delta’s new nonstop flight from New York’s JFK to V.C. Bird International Airport, the 108-square-mile island of Antigua and its tiny sister island, Barbuda, are primed for weekend getaways. (Hurricane Irma severely damaged Barbuda in 2017; the island is still recovering, but one of its most lauded properties, Barbuda Belle, reopened in fall 2018.) Plan a trip for late April, when Antigua Sailing Week brings a new kiteboarding competition to the islands. Those looking for something unique should head to Antigua’s Valley Church Bay, where the Wild Lotus Camp introduced the Caribbean’s first beachfront glamping sites last summer. The canvas tents come with double beds and private showers, plus fire pits and loungers for roughing it in style.

Best places to travel in 2019: Big Island, Hawaii

Big Island, Hawaii

Polulu Beach on the Hawaii’s Big Island Shutterstock

When the Kilauea Volcano erupted May 2018, it shut down Hawaii Volcanoes National Park for more than four months. But all is now back to normal around the 4,000-foot peak, and most of the park is open and safe for visitors. Resume plans to hike, bike, or drive around the park, or book a cruise on Norwegian Cruise Line‘s Pride of America and let the line handle your excursions. To promote the ship’s return to the Big Island, Norwegian is offering free or reduced round-trip airfare to Honolulu from several U.S. and Canada cities with cruise bookings. The seven-day sailing includes stops on the Big Island, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai.

Best places to travel in 2019: Cancun, Mexico

Cancun, Mexico

An aerial view of Cancun’s beachfront Hotel Zone Shutterstock

The beauty of Cancun (beyond that azure water, of course) is the destination’s broad appeal: Dreamy beaches for the laze-the-day-away crowd, nearby Mayan ruins and cenotes for adventure-seekers, and a solid tequila scene that has cemented Cancun’s status in the spring break hall of fame. New accommodations set for 2019 celebrate this variety: On the Riviera Maya, an all-inclusive Nickelodeon Hotel will cater to families come summer, while the sleek Ushuaïa Cancun — sister property to Ibiza’s Ushuaïa — promises adults-only digs and DJ-powered dance parties. New nonstop flights on Southwest Airlines launching in March from Milwaukee, Raleigh, San Antonio and Pittsburgh make getting to paradise even easier.

Best places to travel in 2019: Canouan Island

Canouan Island

The Mandarin Oriental, Canouan is the first Mandarin Oriental in the Caribbean Courtesy Mandarin Oriental, Canouan

It’s not exactly a breeze to get to this buzzworthy Caribbean island, part of the St. Vincent & the Grenadines island chain, but those who embark on the trip — usually via a charter flight from St. Lucia, Grenada, or Barbados — say it’s worth it. A huge part of the allure: September 2017’s opening of the Mandarin Oriental, Canouan. The former Pink Sands Club property is the first Mandarin Oriental in the Caribbean, and the intimate, 1,200-acre compound wows with personal butler service, a jaw-dropping infinity pool, and a signature “Beach of the Day” program.

Best places to travel in 2019: Crete, Greece

Crete, Greece

Kalyves village on the Crete, the largest Greek Island Shutterstock

Skip the crowds in Santorini and Mykonos and head south to Crete, the largest of the Greek Islands. Crete offers a quiet countryside, charming fishing villages, medieval ruins (this is the birthplace of Zeus, legend states), plus affordable hotels, villas, and Airbnb rentals. And in summer 2019, the Mirabello Beach & Village hotel in Agios Nikolaos will reopen as a Wyndham Grand property. Wherever you end up on the 3,200-square-mile island, some standout Cretan cuisine is likely nearby: The island’s strong farming and fishing communities mean locally sourced dishes are abundant. Don’t leave without trying dakos, Crete’s version of meze.

Best places to travel in 2019: Cuba

Cuba

Colorful vintage cars in Havana, Cuba Shutterstock

Cuba has experienced a visitor boom since it reopened to tourism for U.S. travelers in 2015. Restrictions are still in place — you can still only visit on a People-to-People cultural exchange visa — but that didn’t stop 619,000 U.S. travelers from visiting the country in 2017. One of the easiest and most popular ways to visit is on a cruise — Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Seabourn, and Silversea will all add new Cuba-centric itineraries in 2019. And come 2020, Richard Branson’s hip new Virgin Voyages cruise line will make Cuba one of its inaugural ports of call.

Best places to travel in 2019: Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Islands

Sea lions in the Galapagos Islands Shutterstock

Darwin’s playground is home to some of the world’s most pristine wilderness — plus tortoises, iguanas, 22 endemic species of land birds, and more. Several outfitters lead nature-centric expeditions to the archipelago — some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador — including Celebrity Cruises, which will debut a new 100-passenger ship purpose-built for the Galápagos this year. The Celebrity Flora takes it maiden voyage in May, and expeditions will include snorkeling off of Santiago Island and riding in a Zodiac through the islands’ mangrove ecosystems.

Best places to travel in 2019: Ischia, Italy

Ischia, Italy

Maronti Beach in Ischia, Italy Shutterstock

Italian author Elena Ferrante’s four-book series, the Neapolitan Novels, tells the story of Lenù and Lila, who grew up in Naples and spent summers on Ischia, a volcanic island in the Bay of Naples known for its thermal spas and laid-back lifestyle. The books have sold more than 10 million copies worldwide, and HBO adapted them into a miniseries, My Brilliant Friend, which premiered in November 2018 — further sparking readers’ desires to see the story’s real-life setting. At the Hotel Regina Isabella, a new three-night package includes a tour to the locations described in the books, plus a creative-writing workshop with a local literature professor.

Best places to travel in 2019: Kiawah Island, South Carolina

Kiawah Island, South Carolina

A view of Ocean Course, the no. 1 golf course in South Carolina Shutterstock

Golfers should book it to this quaint island off Charleston’s coast: It’s home to the No. 1 golf course in South Carolina, the Ocean Course at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, which is gearing up to host the PGA Championship in 2021. As a result, the resort is in the midst of a $200-million redevelopment that will add a new 150-room hotel and a state-of-the-art conference space by the end of 2020. And just around the corner, the Timbers Kiawah Ocean Club & Residences opened in October 2018 with 21 beachfront vacation homes perfect for a family vacation.

Best places to travel in 2019: Madeira

Madeira

Machico bay on Portugal’s Madeira Island in known for its beaches Shutterstock

Happy birthday, Madeira! The four-island archipelago, an autonomous region of Portugal located off of Africa’s northwest coast, celebrates its 600th anniversary in 2019. Milestone events will take place across the main, mountainous island of Madeira throughout the year (be sure to toast the island with a glass of its eponymous wine); and hotels debuting in the New Year include the Savoy Palace in the capital city of Funchal, and the Pestana Churchill Bay, which opens in the sleepy fishing village of Câmara de Lobos this spring. (Yes, the Churchill is a nod to Winston the Prime Minister, who frequented the island in the 1900s.)

Best places to travel in 2019: Naoshima, Japan

Naoshima, Japan

Yayoi Kusama’s iconic Pumpkin sculpture in Naoshima, Japan Shutterstock

It might be one of the world’s most unconventional contemporary art destinations, but this island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea is a bastion of thought-provoking artistic expression and architecture — from Yayoi Kusama’s iconic Pumpkin sculpture that sits on the pier in front of the famous Benesse House museum and hotel, to the Tadao Ando-designed Chichu Art Museum. In 2019, the Setouchi Triennale will take place across 12 islands in the Seto Inland Sea, including Naoshima. Visitors can expect rotating art exhibits, installations, and interactive experiments from predominately Japanese artists.

Best places to travel in 2019: Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico

Isla Verde besort in San Juan, Puerto Rico Shutterstock

Hurricane Maria devastated Puerto Rico in September 2017, but more than a year later, this soulful island has bounced back. Several hotels and restaurants have reopened, many with new amenities and menu updates. The best way to support the island’s continued recovery? Book a trip. The New Year promises even more additions, including the reopening of San Juan’s Caribe Hilton in January, plus a brand new Four Seasons Cayo Largo Resort currently slated to open in late 2019. Hamilton fans will be happy to hear that Lin-Manuel Miranda is making good on his promise to bring the mega-popular musical to the island: He’ll reprise his role as Alexander Hamilton in January at the University of Puerto Rico.

Best places to travel in 2019: Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

Punta Cana is known for its beachfront all-inclusive resorts Shutterstock

It’s all about the all-inclusive in Punta Cana, a resort getaway on the Dominican Republic’s easternmost tip. Head here if your idea of a dream escape is checking in once and knowing everything is handled. In December, Spanish hotel chain Melía opened The Grand Reserve at Paradisus Palma Real, complete with swim-up suites and a Natura Bisse spa. The new, adults-only, Hedonesque-style Temptation Punta Cana is slated to open later in 2019.

Best places to travel in 2019: Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka

Jungle Beach, in Sri Lanka’s coastal town, Unawatuna Shutterstock

This island nation off India’s southern coast feels like Bali may have 20 years ago: an emerging, diverse destination that packs just as much cultural appeal as it does tropical allure. The country only recently opened its doors to tourism in 2009 at the end of a 26-year civil war, and a decade later, its tourism infrastructure is solid — and very much on the rise. Tourism has grown by 15 percent in 2018, and the government expects to welcome 4 million annual visitors by 2020. Most travelers fly into the capital city of Colombo and head south to the beach (Unawatuna) or inland to Udawalawe National Park for a safari, but one of the best ways to see the country is on a multi-day tour that offers a little bit of everything. Abercrombie & Kent‘s 14-day adventure includes temple and tea plantation visits, game drives, and more.

Best places to travel in 2019: St. Barth

St. Barth

The harbor in Gustavia, the capital of St. Barth Shutterstock

St. Barth was yet another Caribbean island that took a beating from Hurricane Irma in the fall of 2017; and while much of the past year was spent on recovery, 2019 will be all about getting back to glamorous on this notoriously glitzy isle. Many of the island’s most exclusive properties will reopen in December 2018 — including Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, Le Sereno, and Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa. Later in 2019, Le Guanahani and Eden Rock-St. Barths will return with updated guest rooms and new dining outlets. Plan your trip for May, when the weather is still great, but shoulder season pricing makes the elite island more accessible.

Best places to travel in 2019: Tahiti

Tahiti

An aerial view of Tahiti’s Mount Aorai and surrounding coral reef Shutterstock

Dreamy, bucket-list spot Tahiti — the largest island in French Polynesia — may feel like a world away, but it’s actually only an eight-hour flight from Los Angeles. Air Tahiti Nui’s new 787 Dreamliner fleet makes the jaunt even more comfortable. (Couples can even preorder a bottle of Champagne to get the celebration started.) In October, United Airlines became the first U.S. carrier to fly nonstop to Papeete — and the nine-hour flight from San Francisco recently expanded to year-round service. In 2019, the island will commemorate the 250th anniversary of James Cook’s arrival: expect plenty of festivals and cultural events throughout the year.

Best places to travel in 2019: Todos Santos, Mexico

Todos Santos, Mexico

Playa Cerritos in Todos Santos, Mexico Shutterstock

Los Cabos had a huge new hotel boom in 2018, and farther south, Puerto Vallarta is making waves, but in-the-know travelers are booking it to Todos Santos — Mexico’s bohemian, laid-back surf enclave. The costal getaway is about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas (thanks to a new highway that opened last April), and the place to stay is Hotel San Cristóbal, the latest project from hotelier Liz Lambert, known for Marfa’s hip El Cosmico hotel. Check into one of the 32 funky-chic rooms before heading into town for vintage shopping at Mixtica and fish tacos at Jazamango. Prime season for snorkeling with whale sharks in nearby La Paz falls between November and June, but surf lessons at Mario Surf School are available year-round.

Best places to travel in 2019: Whitsunday Islands

Whitsunday Islands

Whithaven Beach in the Whitsunday Islands Shutterstock

Queensland’s Whitsunday Islands are home to some of Australia’s most gorgeous beaches, and the 74-island archipelago (70 of those islands remain undeveloped) is a gateway to the Great Barrier Reef. After it reopens in July following extensive renovations, the ultra-luxe Hayman Island by InterContinental will take visitors to the reef by boat, helicopter, or seaplane. Coral-bleaching events (caused by climate change) have damaged and even killed off some areas of the Great Barrier Reef in recent years; while reports out of Australia state that the reef is showing signs of recovery, coral reefs are still especially vulnerable to climate change, says the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Go see them now before it’s too late.

Best places to travel in 2019: Andaman Islands

Andaman Islands

An elephant walks along a beach on Havelock Island Shutterstock

For years, regulations issued by the Indian government kept travelers away from the Andaman Islands — a remote, 325-island Bay of Bengal archipelago — for years, but recent changes have made 29 of them accessible. Head to Havelock Island via a 2.5-hour catamaran journey from Port Blair, and check into the new Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans, the islands’ first luxury property. Part of India’s opulent Taj hotels chain, the resort comprises 50 stilted villas overlooking the rainforest-fringed Radhanagar Beach. Spend days here practicing yoga, kayaking through mangroves, and island hopping in one of the resort’s private boats.

Editor’s Note: Visiting tribal reserved areas in the Andaman Islands is prohibited. In November 2018, American John Allen Chau went missing when he illegally visited one of these restricted areas. Be sure to review the entry formalities for foreigners before planning a trip and, as always with travel to other countries, be respectful and follow the rules.

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Five Reasons You Should Make Saman Villas, Sri Lanka Your Next Escape https://www.islands.com/five-reasons-you-should-make-saman-villas-sri-lanka-your-next-escape/ Mon, 21 May 2018 22:31:39 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=40090 All its grandeur, exceptional service, and breathtaking views will make you want to stay forever!

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Five Reasons You Should Make Saman Villas, Sri Lanka Your Next Escape Saman Villas

1. A tropical state of mind
Perched on a rocky headland dividing two long seemingly endless, unspoilt beaches of golden sand, backed by the luscious greenery of coconut plantations in the quiet fishing village of Aruruwella, Bentota lies the award winning Saman Villas, Sri Lanka’s first boutique hotel just a short two hour drive from the cosmopolitan capital of Colombo.

Saman Villas
A tropical haven Reception area at Saman Villas

The resort is wonderfully idyllic and tranquil, offering its guests peace and privacy in abundance. The design inspiration is taken from a fusion of modern and period Sri Lankan aesthetics, cleverly combined to create a sophisticated and relaxing ambience that blends perfectly into the tropical environment. Ascending steps through a water garden will take you to the reception where attentive staff are dedicated to giving every guest a flavour of authentic Sri Lankan hospitality. Head on to the terraced garden where an infinity pool appears to merge with the dazzling Indian Ocean.

2. Classically beautiful suites

Saman Villas
Luxurious suites with direct sea views Superior Suite

Saman Villas pushes the boundaries of exclusivity with just twenty-seven exquisite suites some featuring their own private pools with unmatched views of the stunning and unspoilt coastline of Bentota. Here luxury comes as standard and ‘getting away from it all’ takes on a whole new meaning as it provides both seclusion and privacy in its chic villas nestled in tropical gardens. The 26 suites and duplex villa located on either side of the rocky promontory offer breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. Escape inside your suite to discover a cool, airy space peppered with Sri Lankan charm. Expect traditional décor, handcrafted furnishings, private terraces and gardens – not to mention thoughtful touches such as fresh flowers and fruit. All suites are complete with exquisite furnishings and modern amenities such as an LED TV, iPod/iPhone docking station, and complimentary WiFi. The elegant bathrooms are semi-open and spacious equipped with carefully picked bathware fused with ethnic motifs.

Saman Villas
Bathe in pure bliss Superior Suite Bathroom

3. Intimate dining set beside the ocean

Saman Villas
A selection of magical dining settings Romantic Dining on the Rock

Lose yourself in the gourmet delights of the chefs who have created an exceptionally well-curated menu highlighting local produce and the freshest ingredients. A culinary symphony of creative, modern food that highlights, in particular, the freshest local seafood and produce is what you’ll find on the menu, lightened to create a supremely elegant and authentic dining experience. The ethos of keeping it simple and allowing the produce to really shine allows them to create exquisitely plated cuisine with generous flavour that maintains the expected high standards of Saman Villas guests. After a walk on the sun-kissed beach or a relaxing swim guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the sunset sipping on their favorite cocktail at the pool bar. For those seeking a personalized experience, private dining can be arranged in several romantic locations set against the pristine beauty of its secluded beachfront.

4. Indulge in complete rejuvenation

Saman Villas
Pamper yourself with our signature spa treatments Sahana Spa

Discover inner harmony with a pampering spa session. The Sahana Spa, inspired by Balinese designs is carefully crafted to heighten the sense of relaxation. Guests can choose from a wide selection of Ayurvedic and other therapeutic treatments in the luxurious suites set amidst a water garden which includes an aromatic sauna, steam shower, Jacuzzi, mud bath, treatment room and dining pavilion. Each area is also provided with music that is meant to calm your mind and rejuvenate. A separate treatment area is available for reflexology, pedicure, and manicure. The trained therapists use local oils, herbs, and spices with different therapies such as aromatherapy, reflexology proven for natural healing.

Saman Villas
For romantic rendezvous Romantic spa dining

5. Explore the tropical paradise

Saman Villas
Infinity pool merging with the sea Saman Villas

The surrounding environs offer a myriad of outdoor activities ranging from religious and cultural visits, water sports or spend the day picking fresh vegetables and seafood at the local market, for those who would like to explore the area. With the choice to do as much or as little as you like, this intimate retreat feels like your very own sanctuary. Wander down to the pristine beach and take a dip or listen to the soothing sounds of the waves. Later, relax on your terrace for an early evening cocktail accompanied by the smell of Saman flowers as the sun goes down before indulging in a delicious dinner. Saman Villas is an undeniably romantic boutique hotel that defines a luxury escape.

Saman Villas
Pavilions to be in perfect solitude Saman Villas

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13 Affordable Honeymoon Destinations https://www.islands.com/13-affordable-honeymoon-destinations/ Thu, 01 Dec 2016 08:16:35 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=40362 Our list of affordable honeymoon destinations includes destinations like Portugal, Thailand and Hawaii.

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Feeling a little stretched by your wedding expenses? Don’t let that impact yours and your loved one’s honeymoon fun. Exotic places like Hawaii and Jamaica that were once thought to be out of the everyday price range can easily be honeymooned — you just have to know where to look.

Try out Thailand, one of the most popular destinations in the world and especially among Southeast Asia. Can’t make the trip to Paris? Montreal in Canada has a similar French vibe with its own unique culture, too, with local festivals surrounding art and comedy. Portugal also offers some of the most affordable vacations while still having similar aesthetics to more expensive destinations like Spain and Greece.

Wherever you’re looking to celebrate the happiest, most important time of your lives, you’re sure to find a destination fit for you and your partner with our list of best affordable honeymoon destinations.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Jamaica
Jamaica Shutterstock

Jamaica

The Spanish colonized Jamaica shortly after Christopher Columbus discovered the exotic, tropical isle in 1494. The British later snatched it away, laying the groundwork for the cultural melting pot that eventually gave the world Rasta, reggae and Red Stripe. But the Spanish are invading again, this time with huge, all-inclusive resorts that lure couples craving bargains.

You don’t even have to stay at one of the new Riu, Iberostar or Gran Bahia Principe resorts strung along the north shore between Negril and Ocho Rios — their mere appearance has brought down hotel rates across the island. Sandals resorts were founded in Jamaica, and their seven on-island oases are offering all sorts of incentives, including spa credits, free nights and rates up to 65% less than before the Spanish invasion.

And with budget airlines like JetBlue, AirTran and Air Transat now flying between North American cities and Montego Bay, as well as expanded service by other air carriers, Jamaica is now among the cheapest places to reach in the Caribbean.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Thailand
Thailand Shutterstock

Thailand

Southeast Asia’s favorite destination is the kind of place where it almost doesn’t matter how much money you spend, making it one of the best budget honeymoon destinations. Even slumming it can seem like luxury in tropical paradises like Phuket and Ko Samui.

Thailand’s biggest bargain is accommodations, especially at the more popular destinations where the choice in hotels can sometimes overwhelm. Fierce competition has brought room prices down to levels that seem too good to be true. Flying around Thailand is fairly inexpensive, too, and never takes very long. Flights between Bangkok and the northern city of Chiang Mai take about an hour and can cost less one way than most comparable flights in the U.S.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Ireland
Ireland Shutterstock

Ireland

With the average price of a hotel night falling over the past two years, Dublin has gone from being one of the most expensive capitals in Western Europe to one of the best values. Even so, the Irish metropolis remains relatively expensive compared to the rest of the Emerald Isle, especially the breathtaking west coast with its quaint villages, wind-swept scenery and green that seems to stretch forever.

Our advice: Skip Dublin, and fly straight into Shannon Airport, and you’ll save both money and time (it’s an hour closer to the United States than Dublin) without sacrificing the attractions for which Ireland is known: welcoming locals, thriving musical culture and rugged natural beauty.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Mexico
Yucatan Peninsula Shutterstock

Yucatan Peninsula

Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula encompasses a huge area: Cancun and Cozumel islands, the mainland Riviera Maya (Playa del Carmen and Tulum) and inland spots like Chichen Itza and Merida, which means there are plenty of choices for staying, eating and playing. Each destination has its own distinct vibe.

Cancun is all about beaching, bargain shopping and crazy nightlife. Fronting the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, Cozumel is a holy grail for the diving crowd. Playa del Carmen is smooth and sophisticated while Tulum and Isla Mujeres offer two takes on beach-bum paradise: the former, eco-minded; the latter, isolated (in a good way). The average price of a hotel room has plunged across the Yucatan during spring and summer.

Five-star hotels generally offer the deepest discounts. Or you can make like Indiana Jones in a thatch-roof jungle bungalow at the Mayaland Hotel, near Chichen Itza. Down in laid-back Tulum, there are good beachfront rooms for less, and even the high-end places, like the rustically romantic Posada Luna del Sur, can fit you in for an affordable price, depending on the season.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Montreal, Canada
Montreal, Canada Shutterstock

Montreal, Canada

If you crave a honeymoon with a French “joie de vivre,” but Paris seems too pricey, then why not consider Montreal? A compact city with top-grade public transit, Montreal makes it easy for guests to explore the city without renting a car. Base yourselves in Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal), and you can walk to Notre-Dame Basilica, the St. Lawrence riverfront and the renovated Marche Bonsecours market, with its bars, restaurants and boutiques.

Or purchase a three-day occasional card for unlimited travel on the city’s extensive metro and bus networks. Many of the coolest attractions and events in the city are actually free. The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the Redpath Museum won’t cost you a dime — neither will many of the events staged during the city’s famous comedy festival. Likewise, the annual Montreal International Jazz Festival includes more than 350 free concerts.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Honolulu, Oahu
Honolulu, Oahu Shutterstock

Honolulu, Oahu

Given its high-priced island economy and its distance from the mainland, the 50th state has always been one of the pricier domestic destinations. But that doesn’t mean you can’t find good value. Couples dreaming about a Hawaiian honeymoon should consider Honolulu and the island of Oahu, home to icons like Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head and the Banzai Pipeline surf break.

Honolulu’s hefty hotel stock means rates are available that fit every budget. Dining can be affordable, too, especially when you join the locals at the low-priced lunch joints and bakeries of Honolulu’s Kapahulu neighborhood and the city’s Saturday farmers’ market. The city and its lush, tropical surroundings also boast many free festivals and special events that highlight the island’s multicultural heritage.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Portugal
Portugal Shutterstock

Portugal

Portugal tops nearly everyone’s list of the most affordable holiday destinations inside the Euro zone, beating out neighboring Spain and equally sun-splashed Greece. But it’s not just the value that’s been giving this coastal country such attention: One of the last Western European nations to modernize, Portugal retains much of its bygone charm.

This land of ancient castles and endless olive groves, chromatic fishing villages and funky urban neighborhoods is just now being complemented by chic beach retreats and some of the best golf courses in the world. The European Consumers’ Organisation recently selected Lisbon as Europe’s best vacation destination, just ahead of Barcelona, Spain.

One of the reasons is that a full week at a five-star hotel in Lisbon can run about the same price as just one or two nights at a luxury hotel in other European capitals. In addition to reasonable hotel rates, Portugal is known for relatively low rental-car rates, restaurant prices and greens fees.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Brazil
Brazil Shutterstock

Brazil

Brazil has finally embraced the all-inclusive with the same passion it puts toward soccer. Brazilian backers have hooked up with SuperClubs to launch Breezes properties at prime honeymoon locations, including the musical city of Bahia on the north coast and the super-chic Buzios beach-resort area near Rio de Janeiro.

Despite its reputation as a high-priced city, Rio can actually be very reasonable. After all, the most popular activities are absolutely free: people-watching and parading up and down Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. And you don’t have to stay right on the beach: Hotels a block or two behind the strand are often hundreds of dollars per night cheaper than the Sandside ones while offering the same level of room and service.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Australia
Australia Shutterstock

Australia

The Aussies have long believed everyone deserves a great holiday, and they accommodate with dining, sleeping and travel options for every budget. Hitting up the Land Down Under has everything you’re looking for.

Want to explore nature and see the wildlife Australia has to offer? Check. Interested in marine life and one of the world’s greatest natural wonders? The Great Barrier Reef is there. Hungry? You can’t go wrong with the wide variety of foods, from pan-Asian food to local cuisines. Be sure to check out the wine Australia has to offer at Barossa Valley and Hunter Valley, too.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Balkans
Balkans Shutterstock

Balkans

Europe’s long-lost corner may not seem like the most obvious spot for a honeymoon, but the Balkans have really come into their own in recent years as a low-cost alternative to pricier Mediterranean destinations. In particular, Bulgaria and Croatia have emerged as standout locales where money goes further than elsewhere on the continent — and they have as much culture to offer as their better-known neighbors in Western Europe.

Bulgaria blends Roman ruins, ancient Orthodox churches, Greek-like cuisine and Black Sea beaches with incredibly low prices on just about everything. Croatia is just as eclectic, with a gorgeous mix of Adriatic islands and beaches, fortified Renaissance towns and inland national parks with white-water rafting, hiking and boating on jade-colored lakes.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico Shutterstock

Puerto Rico

This island remains one of the Caribbean’s best value getaways, not the least because U.S. citizens don’t have to invest in a passport to get there. Flights from the States haven’t dropped that much in price over the past few years, but accommodations in Puerto Rico definitely have. You’ll also save bucks on many of Puerto Rico’s popular outdoor activities.

Surf schools at world-renowned Playa Rincon range are considerably less than other surf spots like Hawaii. Top-ranked scuba outfitters offer one- and two-tank dives for extremely competitive prices out of San Juan. Rental cars are another great value. Because Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, not only are roads and driving conditions very similar to back home, so are rentals.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka Shutterstock

Sri Lanka

This teardrop-shaped island in the Indian Ocean is on the opposite side of the globe from North America, so airfare isn’t cheap. But once you reach the ancient land of Serendib, the island is very affordable. Imagine all of the exotic delights India has to offer: palaces and ancient temples, palm-shaded beaches, game reserves with wild elephants, leopards, incredible cuisine and exotic shopping.

In a smaller, more manageable space, Sri Lanka makes for one of the best affordable honeymoon destinations.

Cheap and Affordable Honeymoon Destinations: Turkey
Turkey Shutterstock

Turkey

With more than 3,400 miles of shoreline, Turkey has a lot of coast to choose from. And it’s on three different seas: the Mediterranean, Black and Aegean. Much like neighboring Greece, the coast is sprinkled with ancient ruins and picturesque villages, chic waterfront resorts and white-sand strands framed by pine forests and turquoise bays. The main difference is price.

Plan accordingly, and you could end up paying half as much for a Turkish honeymoon as an equivalent Greek getaway. Turkey’s seaside resorts are an especially good bargain. The Greek isle of Santorini may be breathtaking, but, over on the Turkish shore, you can snag a great room in places like Antalya, Bodrum or the new hipster hangout of Cesme for significantly less.

A beach honeymoon in Turkey easily combines with a stopover in one of Europe’s iconic capital cities (London, Paris, Rome). Or you can fly straight to Istanbul and, spend a couple of days beside the Bosporus in a city that has become increasingly sophisticated in recent years.

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16 Best Places to Travel in 2016 https://www.islands.com/16-best-places-to-travel-in-2016/ Fri, 04 Dec 2015 04:50:09 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=39092 Best places to travel this year

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We’ve handpicked the best travel destinations of 2016 — some familiar and some not — and we’re sharing our insider tips for the best time to plan your trip. The biggest challenge will be choosing your favorite.

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Seychelles Shutterstock

1. SEYCHELLES

Spread across 175 square miles of the Indian Ocean, this chain of 115 islands has become (slightly) more accessible with the introduction of Crystal Cruises‘ first small-capacity yacht, Crystal Esprit. The 62-guest, all-suite ship will spend its maiden season sailing into some of the smaller ports of call in the Seychelles, departing from Dubai. If you prefer to remain on land, The H Resort Beau Vallon Beach debuted this past August as the only five-star beachfront hotel in Mahé, the archipelago’s largest island. And come spring, Six Senses Zil Pasyon will open on its own 640-acre isle; even if you don’t opt to stay in one of the 47 villas that make up the resort, you can still boat over for meals or drinks. When to go: Year-round; the islands sit outside the cyclone belt.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Cozumel
Cozumel Shutterstock

2. COZUMEL

In 2016, travel to this Mexican isle will be easier — and less expensive. A new ferry company, Barcos Caribe Cozumel, will shuttle travelers from Playa del Carmen, raising the total number of boat companies serving the island to three. Once on Cozumel, wander through the revamped gardens and fountains at Parque Benito Juarez, which offers free Wi-Fi, and breathe deeply at the world’s first underwater oxygen bar, Clear Lounge Cozumel. Also underwater: new exploratory dives to sites with pristine reefs are being led just north of the island. After dark, stargaze from the astrological observatory at the new Cha’an Ka’an Cozumel Planetarium. When to go: January through July, but avoid spring break.

3. HAIDA GWAII, CANADA

Off the coast of British Columbia, Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) houses some 5,000 people on its 150 islands. Accommodations are limited to just two of these, Graham and Moresby, which together see about 24,000 visitors a year. Annual tourism to Gwaii Haanas National Park, however, is capped at just 2,000. Enter Steppes Travel, with an easier, more comfortable way to explore the destination. Its brand-new, May-to-July itinerary includes seven nights on Swell, a century-old tugboat turned six-cabin, 12-passenger expedition cruising ship. You’ll observe a variety of wildlife — humpback whales, black bears and bald eagles — and visit several cultural sites, including SGang Gwaay Haida village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to see its hand carved memorial totem poles. When to go: May to September.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Aruba
Aruba Zach Stovall

4. ARUBA

With a geographic position just north of Venezuela and just south of the hurricane belt, Aruba boasts nearly perfect weather, making it an ideal year-round locale. Adding to that appeal for 2016? New and improved resorts and an event foodies will love. A total of $100 million was invested in new hotels and enhancements to existing properties. The all-inclusive Riu Palace Antillas opened late last year; the Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino updated the rooms in its adults-only Marina and family-friendly Ocean Suites areas; and both the Marriott Aruba Hotel and Holiday Inn Resort Aruba received face-lifts. The former Radisson Aruba, a historic Morris Lapidus-designed beachfront property, recently became the Hilton Aruba Caribbean Resort & Casino, and by year’s end, a trio of Divi Resorts will have completed their upgrades. On the food scene, Aruba is getting a taste of the farm-to-table move- ment. Its first-ever Eat Local Aruba Restaurant Week, during which some 55 eateries created special wallet-friendly locavore menus, debuted last fall and will return in late September. But the island celebrates great local food any time of year; it won the 2015 TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice award for the best fine dining in the Caribbean. When to go: June through November, when most of the region’s weather is unpredictable.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Scotland
Scotland Scotland Tourism

SCOTLAND’S NORTH COAST 500 IS A ROAD TRIP TO RIVAL ROUTE 66.

5. SCOTLAND

The launch of Scotland’s North Coast 500 loop has opened up the country’s Highlands and northernmost shores in a new and much more accessible way. Intrepid travelers can now explore its rural and rugged landscapes by car, bicycle or even on foot. An added boon: Recently added flights to Aberdeen on Icelandair make it easier than ever to get to nearby Inverness, the capital of the Highlands and the perfect place to start the trip. The scenic 500-mile route — which can be driven in its entirety in as little as three days — combines nature and adventure, food and drink, history and culture. You will pass towering mountain ranges, centuries-old ruins and monumental castles. And you can see what all the Hollywood buzz is about with a side trip to the Isle of Skye, off Scotland’s northwest coast. Its wild, weathered, windswept landscapes have recently been featured in Macbeth, starring Michael Fassbender and Marion Cotillard, and J.J. Abrams’s just-released Star Wars epic. When to go: High summer, when daylight stretches until 11 p.m.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Azores
Azores Shutterstock

6. AZORES, PORTUGAL

Last spring, Ryanair and EasyJet began offering low-cost flights to connect the Azores‘ capital city of Ponta Delgada, on the main island of Sao Miguel, to London and Lisbon, raising the profile of this nine-island chain dramatically. Americans will also find them surprisingly easy to reach, thanks to four-hour direct flights from Boston on SATA. Reasons to visit: A 450-mile network of hiking trails recently debuted on the island of Santa Maria, where the soon-to-open Charming Blue will offer 15 residential-style rooms. On Sao Miguel, the striking volcanic stone and concrete Arquipelago Contemporary Arts Centre just bowed, as did Design Hotels’ 55-room Furnas Boutique Hotel, featuring a spring-fed thermal spa. When to go: Mild climate year-round, but rainy season is November through March.

7. BARBADOS

This former British colony celebrates the 50th anniversary of its independence on November 30, bringing with it an ample amount of festivals. Expect the usual annual autumn events, such as the Barbados Food & Wine and Rum Festival and the National Independence Festival of Creative Arts, along with special one-offs, like the Barbados 50, a transatlantic rally that will see boats traveling from London to West Africa to the Caribbean between July and November. It closes out a big year of sailing events, which include the 80th anniversary of the Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series in mid-January,as well as the GP14 World Championships in late March. When to go: Year-round, but November is the height of the independence celebrations.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Mergui
Mergui Archipelago Shutterstock

8. MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO, MYANMAR

Up until a few years ago, it was almost impossible to travel to this out-there set of 800 islands spread across 10,000 square miles in the Andaman Sea off Myanmar’s southern coast. Even as the political situation improved in the country, the only way to experience this pristine, practically empty archipelago was by wooden boat. Now, smartly appointed, state-of-the-art yachts are sailing here from ports in Phuket, Thailand, letting sophisticated travelers tour these jungled, mountainous sand- and coral-ringed atolls without sacrificing modern comforts and conveniences. Top Asia-travel expert Remote Lands has begun five-day cruises around many of the islands, giving guests access to exclusive dive sites teeming with turtles, stingrays, sharks and seahorses. Beyond diving, travelers can explore villages of the local Moken population, otherwise known as “sea gypsies,” a hunter- gatherer maritime tribe who have called these waters home for millennia. When to go: November to March, outside of monsoon season.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Cartagena
Cartagena Shutterstock

9. CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA

Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast, boasts colorful colonial architecture and fantastic food, but its vibrant arts scene is often overlooked. This January brings the 10th incarnation of the Classical Music Festival, followed by the Southern Hemisphere edition of the U.K.’s literary Hay Festival. The city’s thriving contemporary music scene can be experienced via a new tour, Ruta Champetua, from on-the-ground experts Cartagena Insider, which introduces travelers to the world of the local Afro-Caribbean-Spanish champetua sound. Cultural center Ciudad Movil features a slate of creative performances, plus a new courtyard restaurant, Fedora Libro Cafe. Come spring, the hot spot to stay will be the 42-room Tcherassi Hotel + Spa; with a rooftop pool and restaurant, the flagship is decorated by Cartagena native and top New York designer Richard Mishaan. And all this comes at a bargain, too: The U.S. dollar has been steadily climbing against the Colombian peso; at press time, $1 U.S. equals 3,100 COP. When to go: The festivals take place in January and the weather is dry through April — the humid wet season starts in May.

Cartagena boasts colorful colonial architecture, fantastic food and a vibrant arts scene.

10. SEA ISLAND & JEKYLL ISLAND, GEORGIA

Many changes are afoot on these barrier islands, long a favorite of Southerners. Sea Island will see the 1928 Mediterranean-style Cloister hotel expand this spring with the 63-room Garden Wing, while the nearby eight-room Lodge at Broadfield was entirely rebuilt last fall after a devastating fire. New on Jekyll Island: 200- room LEED-certified The Westin Jekyll Island and a 157-room Holiday Inn Resort, along with a Beach Village retail area. A remastered Campground Pavilion makes sleeping under the stars much more comfortable, and this fall finds the opening of Jekyll Island Suites, whose 41 two- and three-bedroom accommodations will cater to families. And February 4 to 6, Sea Island goes Edwardian one last time for its annual Downton Abbey event, coinciding with the show’s final season. When to go: Late spring and early fall.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Australia
Australia Shutterstock

11. AUSTRALIA

Now’s your chance to delve deeply into indigenous customs across the continent — beyond the Red Centre and Outback — through projects and companies owned by the aboriginal tribes. Barraddict is offering a new trip in the northern Kimberley region of Western Australia, where indigenous guides lead guests on helifishing tours and sea turtle-monitoring projects. In the south, Koomal Dreaming has new programs where guests can forage for bush food, then learn how to cook their finds with native chef Josh Whiteland. Near the Nitmiluk Gorge of the Northern Territory, the 100 percent aboriginal-owned outfit Pudakul has launched flat-bottom boat tours led by guides from the Jawoyn tribe. This tribe also owns the area’s Cicada Lodge, a 3-year-old pioneer in high-end, indigenous- owned hotels. When to go: Varies depending on which tour you choose, but generally May to September.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Mykonos
Mykonos Shutterstock

THE PARTY HAS NEVER STOPPED ON MYKONOS.

12. MYKONOS, GREECE

While the uncertainties of Greece’s economy and the ongoing migrant crisis might have dampened the desire of some travelers to plan an Aegean holiday, the party never stopped on Mykonos. In fact, this past season saw an unprecedented number of openings on the hotel, spa and restaurant fronts. The attention-grabbing arrival for 2016 looks to be a second hotel from Bill & Coo; this one, Bill & Coo Coast, will have 15 rooms on 21⁄2 coastal acres just outside of Mykonos town. It will join two recent standouts: the 25-key, minimalist Mykonos Blanc, on Ornos Beach, and Mykonos No. 5, in town, whose budget-friendly 11 residential-style rooms have kitchens and terraces. New spots to see and be seen include Scorpios, a beach club on the island’s south coast featuring performance spaces and an indoor-outdoor restaurant; Buddha Bar-Beach, a seaside lounge at the recently redone Santa Marina Hotel & Villas in Ornos; and Hakkasan group’s upmarket contemporary Chinese spot Ling Ling. Plus Athens’s beloved health-food joint Nice-n-Easy just introduced good-for-you fare to the beach. When to Go: Late May through June or September, to avoid the crowds.

13. PANAMA CITY, PANAMA

After an epic, yearslong feat of engineering, Panama‘s famed canal will reveal its new lane this spring. Tour company Ancon Expeditions will offer behind-the-scenes construction tours, some by helicopter, others by Zodiac boat. In town, the historic Casco Viejo district, which saw the arrival of the American Trade Hotel and Tantalo Hotel in 2013, continues to attract trendy travelers on a budget (a boutique hotel is planned in a pair of colonial-era buildings). On the luxury front, Ritz-Carlton, Panama, will open a 29-story tower with 220 rooms, four restaurants, two pools and a spa in the city’s heart by year’s end. And the national airline Copa just added direct flights from New Orleans and San Francisco. When to go: Spring, after the canal opens.

best place to travel in 2016 new plymouth
New Plymouth Jeremy Beckers

14. NEW PLYMOUTH, NEW ZEALAND

This port city on the west coast of the North Island offers an intriguing mix of culture, architecture and contemporary art, including the Len Lye Museum, named for and devoted to one of NZ’s most famous artists. But outside city limits, it’s all about adventure. There’s the reopened 11-mile Pouakai Crossing, which traverses mountains high above New Plymouth. Cyclists can sign up for Ventouro’s Forgotten Highway Cycling Tour, a 350-mile, six-day ride across some of North Island’s most rugged and remote terrain, led by two-time Olympian Tim Gudsell. An easier-option is Forgotten World Adventures’ new Rail Bike Tours, where riders gently pedal through the countryside on nearly 90 miles of unused train tracks, riding in converted rail carts. When to go: Spring or fall in the Southern Hemisphere.

No need to head to Key West to get that retro-chic Keys flavor: ENJOY YOUR PLACE IN THE SUN ON THIS LITTLE-KNOWN FLORIDA KEY.

15. ISLAMORADA

No need to head to Key West to get that retro-chic Keys flavor. On Islamorada, Amara Cay recently opened in a former (and now totally unrecognizable) Hampton Inn, bringing smart, affordable digs — and Oltremare Ristorante, a restaurant specializing in Italian cuisine with a Floridian twist — to the beach. Several other area hotels received recent revamps, including the hipster-friendly Postcard Inn. And beer lovers will find there’s more to this destination than daiquiris: The Florida Keys Brewing Company opened last March, brewing their suds on site and joining the 14-month-old Islamorada Beer Company. Historic Upper Keys Walking Tours now ends its new fact-filled Happy Hour History Tour at the Brewing Company with a draught on the house. (The company’s equally new Indian Key Historic State Park tour is also interesting, even without the alcohol.) And this Upper Key is having a moment in the spotlight: The Netflix series Bloodline, which is set (and shoots) here, starts its second season this year with new cast member John Leguizamo. When to go: January and February, with temps in the high 70s.

Best Places to Travel in 2016 Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka Shutterstock

16. SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka is becoming an easier place to navigate: Enhanced infrastructure has increased connectivity between the capital of Colombo, the old town ofGalle, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Yale National Park in the south — plus the recently revived Queen of Jaffna train also links Colombo to the north. Travel outfitters are taking notice: Abercrombie & Kenthas two new trips planned to Sri Lanka in 2016, while Black Tomato will debut cycling journeys along the south coast, water safaris in the relatively untouched eastern national park of Gal Oya, and sunrise treks up tea country’s Adam’s Peak, the nation’s highest mountain. New hotels include Sri Lanka Collection’s Fort Bazaar, set in the 400-year-old Galle Fort. When to go: December to mid-April for the best weather.

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The Last Untouristed Country https://www.islands.com/last-untouristed-country/ Wed, 04 Apr 2012 00:16:06 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=41985 They want me to take their pictures. These surly seamen balanced atop precarious poles. They’re tilting over the water, trying to catch two-cent minnows. They wave me over with roguish grins and implore me to document their existence. It’s an offer I cannot refuse. The stilt fishermen of Sri Lanka are an iconic sight the […]

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Stilt Fisherman in Sri Lanka
Stilt fisherman, Ahangama, Sri Lanka R. Ian Lloyd

They want me to take their pictures. These surly seamen balanced atop precarious poles. They’re tilting over the water, trying to catch two-cent minnows. They wave me over with roguish grins and implore me to document their existence. It’s an offer I cannot refuse. The stilt fishermen of Sri Lanka are an iconic sight the way moon craters are an iconic sight: seen in a few photos but rarely in person. And to think the stilt fishermen who hover before me almost disappeared forever.

The Boxing Day tsunami of 2004 swallowed more than 30,000 people here in one disastrous moment. The fishermen abandoned their posts. Nobody felt much like hovering over the sea anymore. The wave came during a civil war, amid a stew of indigenous unrest. Sri Lanka had seen its share of strife.

But Sri Lankans are resilient. Incredibly, the tide is already turning. I know it’s turning because they invited me here. Not to dig them out but to witness a true endangered species: the last untouristed country. I arrive like a big-game hunter. Camera in hand. Notebook poised. I’ll mount my kill in a magazine and tell my grandchildren: “I was there before the tour buses.”

An hour off the plane, I’m petting elephants in the wild. No game park. No zoo. I just ask my cab driver to pull over, walk a few paces into the bush and stand face to face with this hulking wonder. She could crush me with her eyelids. But instead, she extends her wrinkled trunk to touch my outstretched hand.

“Did you see that?” I ask my driver, wishing he’d snapped a picture. The driver returns a happy little head-wobble.

“You should not do this,”he says.

“Really? Why not?”

“Very, very dangerous,” he wobbles. “You could die.”

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Photo by: R. Ian Lloyd

You see? This is what they’ve been telling us all these years about Sri Lanka. Danger. Keep out. But the war was isolated to the far north. The tsunami affected a stretch of coastline. And that elephant was actually very friendly. So here I go. No plan. No guidebook. No map. I rush right into the jungle and pet the first elephant I see before they can build a fence around it. Before they can write “Do Not Touch.” And OK, maybe I’ll get trampled to death. But maybe next time my driver will remember to snap a picture.

I wake up in the 17th century. Antique bed. Clawfoot bathtub. My room at the Amangalla Hotel in Galle may be only 100 years old, but the Dutch colonial fort just outside dates back much further. One step out the door and I’m part of a living museum. Uncaptioned and inescapable. Women in bright saris with brighter umbrellas stroll narrow cobblestone alleys. Old men creak their rocking chairs outside crumbling mansions. Historic storefronts are open for business.

A rusted three-wheeler pulls up and the driver offers a learned grin. “Come,” he says. “I show you everything.”

The freelance tour guide is one of the classic beauties of the untraveled country. For a negotiable pittance, your tour comes refreshingly unorganized. And of course, “Where are you from? Ah, Obama. Homer Simpson. American Idol. You like see temple? Maybe buy gemstones?” Sure. Why not? And doh!

In a whir of wind-in-my-hair three-wheeling, my guide delivers a 200-year-old tea plantation still producing Sri Lanka’s fabled “virgin white tea” (from seed to sip never touch- ing human hands). Next we visit a 40-yard-long, 12th-century Buddha, where young monks interrupt solemn meditation to chase monkeys from the shrine. Then come the olfactory assaults of a spice market and roadside fish still moist from the sea. At each spectacle, I’m the only tourist in sight. My driver tags along, pointing out photo ops and fabricating factoids.

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Photo by: R. Ian Lloyd

Each bend in the road presents a thrilling bouquet of surprises. But the isolation is getting a bit eerie. I hadn’t expected to be so right about being the only tourist. Like at my previous Sri Lankan hotel. It had decadent views and private beaches, and I had to ask a bellhop the obvious. “Am I the only one here?”

“No, no,” he said, laughing at my silly question. “The hotel is almost 20 percent occupied right now. Very full.”

Empty isn’t a problem for a romantic getaway, but it’s less than ideal for shooting portraits. So my driver takes me to the “popular” Unawatuna Beach, an international cliche of beach-front cafes and techno traditionals. I shoot pool with some Dutch backpackers exploring the country on motorcycles because they “didn’t know anyone else who had done it.” We’re joined by a Russian girl who’s here learning to surf and might buy some land. “I like the warm water,” she says. Beyond that, most of the clubs are fairly empty. Waiting, it feels like.

I step out to the beach, staring impatiently at the groggy afternoon night life. This isn’t what I was looking for. I head up the beach toward massive trees and houses on stilts. I sit on a boulder overlooking a small river meeting the ocean. Tiny fish have swum upriver and become trapped in an eddy. Crows are feeding on them, but get chased away by chattering monkeys. Wild dogs burst from the jungle to chase the monkeys. Before my eyes, the cycle of life spins its wobbly wheels. I’m trying to photograph this unlikely collision when I notice a young monk seated beside me. Red robes. Shaven head. Eyes like the rising moon. He’s staring at me as if I were the only puzzle piece out of place here.

I snap his portrait and he delights at his own image in the display. Again, he beckons. Again. We repeat the shot a dozen times. I’d never believed what they said about photos stealing souls until I met someone who actually had one.

Finally, I turn the camera off and the monk wanders off disappointed. It’s almost dark, but I take a moment to inspect my shots of the monk. There’s something in his eyes. Something completely out of place. I zoom in closer on his eyes. A distorted reflection glimmers back. Holding a camera.

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Photo by: R. Ian Lloyd

My driver is waiting to whisk me away. Life is better on three wheels. It’s wide open. No doors. Cracked windshield. The road blurs past at arm’s reach. Ox-drawn wagons. Rice paddies. Monsoon horizons. I promise I won’t think of tsunamis, or even say the word.

“This road is amazing,” I tell my driver. “I’m surprised to find such perfect pavement way out here.”

“The Americans just built this road,” he explains. And then he has to say the word. “After the tsunami, no road at all.”

Since my arrival, Salaheem has served as my driver, tour guide, translator, historian, dinner date and personal shopper. He’s my best friend here. “You must have lost many roads that day,” I say, expressing my worldly compassion.

“Roads?” he says. “I lost my house. My family. Everything.” Following a guilty silence, my ride home becomes a post-tsunami tour package. Coming up on our right, you’ll see the housing development built by the Germans after the tsunami. And there is a water tower the Dutch donated after the tsunami.

This electrical plant was from the English after the tsunami. It’s a punctuation mark: “after the tsunami.” Even logging on to the Internet, “after the tsunami, download speed not so good. …”
Wasn’t the tsunami, like, seven years ago? That’s back when Myspace was still cool. That’s pre-Prius. “Seven years is not so long to a child who loses his parents,” Salaheem replies.

Oh, he’s good. So much for dodging the tsunami. Maybe it’s better to wave right back at it. Certainly it’s more interesting. “Where were you during the tsunami?” I ask Fred Netzband-Miller, sitting on the ocean-view veranda of his Siam View Hotel. Fred arrived in Arugam Bay in 1970, parked his motorcycle, met a girl, bought the land and never left.

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Photo by: R. Ian Lloyd

“When the tsunami hit, I was right here on this deck,” he says. From his second-story balcony, we look out over Arugam’s famous point break, once part of the world surfing tour. “I’d just invested my life savings into building 24 bungalows,” he says.

“We threw a big party the night before to celebrate their opening, and the next morning the waves came in. We sat on this very deck serving gin and tonics thinking it was the end of the world.” “I’m surprised you’re still here,” I say.

“I couldn’t afford to leave if I wanted to,” he says. “I lost a million dollars in half an hour.” Down on the beach, a crowd of Sri Lankans are gathering for a pre-sunset splash. Playing cricket. Building sand castles. Wading the gentle shore break. Fred says this is one of the few areas where Muslims, Tamils and Buddhists mingle. Staring down on the crowd, any distinction is invisible.

The city is an eyesore. Traffic. Smog. Industry. Worst of all is the military presence. Soldiers on every corner. Machine guns and checkpoints. I raise my camera toward a soldier and he aims his Uzi in reply. Point taken: Don’t shoot the soldiers. I should have told this story backward. Colombo is the wrong ending for Sri Lanka’s golden return of tourism. My meeting with the monk was better. So were the empty beaches and friendly elephants. And the tours on three wheels. Anything but this.

But it’s my last day, so I march into the urban wilds alone and terrified. Or maybe just exhausted. Each alley feels vaguely threatening. Constrictive. I can barely breathe here.

The three-wheel drivers approach like hustlers. Children no longer beg to have their pictures taken. Women quicken their pace. Soldiers tense their trigger fingers. The city is busy. An elephant trudges along the sidewalk, shackled in Christmas lights and prodded by two handlers with a tip jar. Exploiting nature’s wonder as a sideshow novelty. I snap a photo and drop some change in the jar. Then I head for the sea.

The boardwalk welcomes me. Pony rides and cotton candy. Children with kites and drums. Sunset over the ocean. Soldiers lower a flag, and I shoot a final image in the dying light. The sky is bruised and bloody as I sit on a curb eating street curry and scrolling through my images. There are shots of waterfalls and the stilt fishermen. Plantation workers and the crumbling relics of Fort Galle. If I delete them all, Sri Lanka might cease to exist. My grandchildren could visit and their Colombo is abuzz with its high-profile stupa and markets. But the mood is still humble in Fort Galle, where police women and fig trees are the most welcoming figures. Would still be no tour buses or ticket lines. They’d pet the wild elephants and people would say, “What tsunami?”

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Photo by: R. Ian Lloyd

But real stories don’t tell themselves backward. History is a freight train. A young man sits on the curb beside me, eating his dinner of curry, same as mine.“You are a photographer?” he asks, glancing over at my camera display.

“No, not really a photographer,” I say. “Just a tourist.”

“You should come to the north, where I am from,” he says, still looking more at the camera than at me. “So very beautiful.”

His comment reminds me of how much of the country I’ve left untoured. “Isn’t that where all the fighting was?” I ask. “The war is over,” he says. “So much beauty there. Very remote. Things you cannot see anywhere else.” “Tell me, why does this city still feel so … military?” “The war has been more than my whole life,” he says. “We are still being very careful. But don’t worry. You are safe.”

“Are you a tour guide?” I ask. “No. I am a soldier. But maybe, someday. That is my dream.”

The ocean is just a sound now. A dark memory. The sky is shot full of holes. Magnificent and mundane. “What else have you seen of Sri Lanka?” the soldier asks, nod- ding at my camera. The display reveals those iconic stilt fisher- men, and I recall how they’d invited me to climb up their poles.

The stilt fishermen have returned to the water. And they want pictures. These surly rogues. They didn’t smile when I snapped their photos, but they’re all toothy now as they invite me to sit atop their teetering perch. My mouth says, “No, no, I couldn’t possibly …” but already I’m passing off my camera and rolling up my shorts. Photographically speaking, stilt fishing is Sri Lanka’s defining image, gracing the cover of Lonely Planet and every other recently distributed travel guide. I can’t help thinking to myself, if stilt fishing’s purpose is to avoid disturbing the fish, then what could possibly be worse than busloads of tourists tramping out to collect their souvenir photos, whenever that starts happening?

Today, however, there’s still no stepladder. No handholds. No “You must be this tall” sign. I shimmy up the pole and squirm, twist and wiggle into a trembling semblance of semiseatedness on the fragile crossbar. And there I am: a tourist on full display. I wave to the beach, where a salty sea dog snaps away with my camera, worth several years of tiny fish. Even from here I can see he’s got the lens cap on.

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Sri Lanka Travel Dos and Don’ts https://www.islands.com/sri-lanka-travel-dos-and-donts/ Thu, 15 Mar 2012 01:03:24 +0000 https://www.islands.com/?p=40013 DO Try to master the local head-wobble. You won’t succeed, but simply trying will bring you closer to comprehending its exact meaning. DON’T Photograph the soldiers. Sure the war is over, but they’re not quite ready to have things pointed at them like that yet. DO Keep a handkerchief in your pocket. How a country […]

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Sri Lanka Dos and Don'ts

Sri Lanka

Tea plantation Thinkstock

DO Try to master the local head-wobble. You won’t succeed, but simply trying will bring you closer to comprehending its exact meaning.

DON’T Photograph the soldiers. Sure the war is over, but they’re not quite ready to have things pointed at them like that yet.

DO Keep a handkerchief in your pocket. How a country that primarily eats with its hands can have a napkin crisis is just another one of travel’s great mysteries.

DON’T Overestimate your spicy-food capacity. You can always add more, but those taste buds may never recover.

DO Take three-wheelers as much as possible. You’ll be that much closer to the travel experience (and death).

DON’T Underestimate the power of wildlife. An average of 40 to 50 people are killed by elephants every year.

DO Try the tea. Visit a spice market. And play some cricket. Participating in Sri Lanka’s sources of national pride brings you closer to the locals.

DON’T Just travel the south. All the tourism information will point you in this direction because the civil-war conflict was in the north. But the war is long over, and the real untapped travel destinations await your discovery. Just, um, make sure you don’t wander into any fields unless you’re sure they’ve been properly de-land-mined.

DO Ignore what I said about land mines and wars and elephants and tsunamis. Wait, did I forget to mention … never mind? You’re going to be just fine. Don’t be scared. Get out there and explore. Sri Lanka is awesome.

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